#61
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Gibson J-45 Koa Gibson LG-0 Larrivee OM-40R Martin D-41 Martin 000-18 |
#62
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I already granted you the proof you asked for and, instead of offering a counterpoint (which I suspected you wouldn't), you shifted to semantic games. It seems you just want to argue and I'm not going to go down that trail with you.
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#63
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Wood cracks when it dries out. Not the other way around.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |
#64
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Incorrect. From my first post, "If you find your ebony looking unsightly then it has value on that level."
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#65
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It's not a "semantic game". It's how burdens of proof actually work. |
#66
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I’m trying to get you to answer if you acknowledge that fingerboards can be dry, which you seemed to be doubting earlier. Looking unsightly is not the same thing as being clean, but dry. Gibson’s master luthier has a video on their Gibson TV youtube channel where he goes over the negative effects of letting fingerboards get too dry. Do you dispute this?
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Gibson J-45 Koa Gibson LG-0 Larrivee OM-40R Martin D-41 Martin 000-18 |
#67
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It is amazing what we can argue about. It appears a lot
of the last two pages is arguing about how to argue and I suggest y'all just stop please. Let it go.
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PS. I love guitars! |
#68
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Your top and back woods are also "dry". They are also only covered on one side, like the fingerboard. Some of these woods are prone to cracking, like ebony, but it's not because they need to be fed. I'm meticulous about the care of my instruments, more than anyone else I know, so I'm always interested in learning more about what I can do to protect them. Last edited by TomB'sox; 05-13-2024 at 10:57 PM. Reason: First post after my warning. Great |
#69
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I think that the most important factor for preserving wood is proper humidity. All wood will move a bit over time, no matter how well-dried or aged it is. Swelling and contracting is the enemy. Too much, too rapidly, too bad...
There is a lot of debate about whether or not, or how much, applying a coat of 'something' will aid in wood preservation. Regardless or whether or not it does, the cleaning and 'oiling' of the wood helps preserve it by just the cleaning properties, and it helps brings out the beauty of the wood. Those are reason enough for me to want to treat the fingerboards. Keep your guitars in an environment with proper humidity and away from extreme changes, and keep them clean and looking as good as they can look. It's simple, really, isn't it?
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Be curious, not judgmental. |
#70
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There seems to be some conflation between moisture and dealing with untreated wood on a fretboard.
Certainly too much or too little moisture (or swings in moisture) is harmful. Cracks in the body, fretboards shrinking and causing fret "sprout", etc... That's not really the topic though. The issue is whether or not to treat an unfinished fretboard. No, it doesn't "need" treatment; and dead wood doesn't need "fed". It will however absorb oil and sweat, and accumulate a buildup of dirt, grime, dead skin cells and whatnot - all that same stuff you see accumulated on a computer mouse or keyboard. All that stuff you use a damp rag to wipe off the body or neck. All that same stuff that accumulates on and deadens strings. An untreated fretboard doesn't have magical properties that renders it impervious. If you don't mind that gunk, don't worry about it. If you do, then you do need to add a layer of protection - just like the body of the guitar has, and just like wood furniture has. The question becomes: what to use? You could apply all sorts of varnishes, shellacs, polyurethanes or oils. They will wear off eventually (e.g.: a maple fretboard on a Fender) or evaporate. Sanding and revarnishing isn't practical. Oil is more easily reapplied. The question then becomes: which oil? Some have polymers that remain once the oil evaporates, and they build up (e.g.: Tung, linseed, "Danish", etc...), which potentially creates future issues. Some don't (e.g.: mineral oil), which means it needs periodic reapplication. |
#71
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Apparently, some mineral oils are not "food safe" & warned not to be used on cutting boards or knives. Just sayin' ; Not taking sides. |
#72
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Treating fencing & decking is a no brainer; even cedar only has its life extended if it is treated. When wood is untreated, even Ebony & Rosewood, will absorb ambient moisture, dry out & crack it isn't protected, albeit at a much slower rate than soft woods. That is why humidors exist; BTW, I don't have one & my 92 year old acoustic has suffered for it. When I fully restored this Arch top in 2011, repairs included body & back cracks (some significant) in the Honduran Mahogany. The Mahogany arm is still solid but I had to do serious repairs to the slotted headstock which had dried out & cracked in multiple places. The cycle of being exposed to moisture & then drying out is always the culprit. Again, my Ebony fretboard shows no signs of cracks or separations, but I do sanitize (alcohol) & treat it with a few drops of Bore oil (one of many options) every time I restring it. In between, I just wipe it with a damp cloth, along with the strings, body, & pickguard. Just sayin', not taking sides. I'm a player, not a collector. |
#73
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Richlite fretboards
Is it true that I do not have to condition richlite fretboards?
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"Your green eyes they don't miss a thing, they hold me like the sun going down, warm me like a fire in the night, without a sound." Kate Wolf Epiphone Hummingbird Studio Martin 000-10e |
#74
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Well its not wood so probably not. I’m no expert of richlite though. I don’t have a guitar with that kind of board on it.
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Gibson J-45 Koa Gibson LG-0 Larrivee OM-40R Martin D-41 Martin 000-18 |
#75
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I usually moisturize my fretboards with lemon oil, but my luthier sometimes uses paraffin better.
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2023 Loef 00 13 fret 2018 Loef Dread SS 12 fret 1972 Yamaha FG-75 Red Label 1959 Höfner 456/S |