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#47
12-10-2007, 07:05 PM
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I'm loving it, 2 men, passionate about guitars, intelligently arguing about the way they go about describing them and the way they represent themselves and their viewpoints!! It don't get any better than this. Unless of course you want to go back to -- Can anyone recommend the best guitar for about 5 c notes?
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Bourgeois 12 fret slope d padauk/adirondack Martin HD-28V Granata om - rosewood/engleman Martin dm 112 Carvin h2 holdsworth Our task must be to free ourselves by widening our circle of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole of nature and it's beauty. Albert Einstein 
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#48
12-10-2007, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
... read it again. Calm down ... methinks thou dost protest too much. I have a 1984 Takamine EF349 'hog dread, and a Breedlove Atlas. Both of 'em new wouldn't buy me many of the guitars discussed on this forum. I really don't care what anyone else thinks of 'em, they make me happy. But I don't claim either of 'em to be as good as or better than anything else. I played a nice AJ500 in sunburst at the local GC. I could've had it for ****. It was tempting, but I managed to struggle to the door before I succumbed to GAS. But ... it wasn't the same as the Gibson Advanced Jumbo I'd playing just moments before. Just sayin' ... y'know ... Last edited by Forensicguy; 12-10-2007 at 09:00 PM. Reason: price discussions not allowed on the forum
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#49
12-10-2007, 11:01 PM
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I own the same AJ 500 M in natural finish (gloss top). Bought it at GC and I honestly think it's one of the easiest playing (really fun to play) guitars I've ever owned. Has a wonderful woody dark tone unlike any of my other guitars and is, IMHO, a "great" guitar! There; I said it.
However, nobody has touched on one point about Epi Masterbilts and other inexpensive guitars (especially china/japan-made acoustics). And this is not just my opinion, it comes from a very well respected Luthier here in Michigan that use to be at Elderly and now has his own shop. He told me about Materbilts, said they're fine guitars and just can't beat em for the money. But, he said that you need to keep one thing in mind when buying a guitar like that. If it ever needs a neck re-set or some major kind or repair, because of how they're built and constructed it will most likely not be easy to do. Because of this it could be much more costly to repair the guitar than the guitar is worth (meaning you could practically buy a new one for the cost of the repairs). So you might want to look at it this way, It's a great guitar but I know I wouldn't spend a lot of dough repairing mine, if it ever needs major work done. In this regard you can't really compare it to a high-end guitar that costs thousands, where the repair costs can be justified. Still, I love mine and would buy another in a heart-beat if it were lost, stolen or damaged. GREAT guitar! By the way, I had the pickguard removed on mine which is also an area where they skimped on costs. It's has a pixelated coating that gives it that tortoise look, rather than a true pickguard like a Greven that's made from faux tortoise shell material. I hated the looks of it and the shape of it and it's now gone (thanks to my Luthier). Looks much better with out it IMHO.
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#50
12-10-2007, 11:14 PM
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what, exactly, does your guitar builder/repair person friend refer to? Dove tail neck joint? That's a common "complaint" about Martin guitars and other guitars that employ a dove tail neck. On the other hand, a lot of folks think a dove tail makes for a better sounding guitar. But when you mention neck reset and more difficult and all that, that is usually what people are referring to, and if that's the case with the new Epi Masterbilts, I would be even more inclined to want one because of the dove tail design. But you are right that resetting a dove tail neck joint can be costly. I can appreciate not wanting to spend $500 to repair a $450 guitar.
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#51
12-10-2007, 11:21 PM
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The problem I've read about concerning neck resets on import guitars has to do with the use of epoxy in the neck joint, which does not release when heat and steam are applied. This should not be the case with the Masterbilts, as the neck joint is done with hide glue. However, it is still an expensive repair compared to the cost of the guitar. I personally would not hesitate to spend the money were it nescessary down the road, assuming I had the money at that time. To me a favorite guitar is worth more than it's monetary value (to a point).
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Mike The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing Last edited by oldgeezer; 12-11-2007 at 12:33 AM. Reason: I can't spell for crap!
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#52
12-10-2007, 11:22 PM
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Learn to be your own luthier, including doing your own refrets, neck resets, etc. None of it is really all that hard to learn. Problem solved.
Sugar Bear 
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#53
12-11-2007, 12:01 AM
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If my Epi only lasts 10 years then starts to fall apart, I still won't regret buying it. But most likely won't spend mega-bucks on repairs, either. Great guitar; I love my AJ-500 M, but I'm not "in love" with it!
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#54
12-11-2007, 12:13 AM
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you crack me up Sugar! Sammy
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#55
04-12-2008, 10:18 PM
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Wow, what a read!
 I have a ten year old Epiphone AJ28S I purchased new in '98 which to me is GREAT! Bought it because I couldn't afford a J45. Now that I'm a bit better off and looking at J45's ten years later, I stumble onto this thread and thinking seriously about another Epi  Is the tone similar between the two guitars? My main reason for the J45 is that I have had a hard on for Jeff Tweedy's sounds for so long now I'm hurting!  Thanks for the review Sugar Bear.
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#56
04-13-2008, 12:50 AM
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Richard
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#58
04-13-2008, 04:12 PM
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So will the J45 be a warmer/darker tone compared to an AJ500M? I know it's a good idea to go out and audition guitars but let me tell ya, finding a J45 on a rack in Sydney is about as rare as hen's teeth! And I've NEVER seen a Masterbilt either......both of these would have to be ordered in if you want one, which is why I spend time lurking forums to find out as much as I possibly can. :-(
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#59
04-13-2008, 05:29 PM
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Just sayin'
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#60
04-13-2008, 05:37 PM
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Kevin
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