#16
|
|||
|
|||
I put the pin back in its hole after I remove the old string's ball end. A convenient place to keep it. And it's where I needed it when I want to seat the new string.
__________________
Yamaha LJ56 & LS36, Furch Blue OM-MM, Cordoba C5, Yamaha RS502T, PRS Santana SE, Boss SY-1000 CG3 Tuning - YouTube - Bandcamp - Soundcloud - Gas Giants Podcast - Blog |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
I now have a project for this summer. Find a piece of wood. Sand it down and make it smooth, and voilá, I will have a pinholder. Thanks for sharing
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
My feelings exactly.
__________________
2022 Martin 000-18 2022 Martin HD12-28 2022 Martin HD-28 2022 Gibson J-45 Standard 2022 Taylor American Dream AD27 Mahogany 2007 Breedlove AC250/SM-12 2006 Breedlove AD20/SR Plus 2003 Martin 000C-16SGTNE 2000 Taylor 410ce 1990 Martin Shenandoah (< 1990 a bunch of great old Yamahas I lost track of) My music: https://pro.soundclick.com/dannybowman |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
The pins that don't seat well can allow the ball end to pull back through the bridge plate. The ball end may not come completely out, but the edge of the hole eventually wears to the point that the string will no longer lodge against the bottom of the bridge plate. Then it's time for an expensive repair. Some guitars it doesn't matter on, but it's SO much simpler to place each pin in its respective hole after each ball end is removed. The bridge works fine as it's own pin holder, so you don't even have to hunt up your "pin holding helper". It's such a small effort to prevent possible eventual damage that you may not even realize is happening. I wish more "owner's manuals" would spell this out for newbies. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
A guitar comes equipped with it's own pin holder! |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
If I put the pins back in the bridge to hold them prior to installing strings they'd most likely fall out during my cleaning routine and end up in the universal black hole that collects picks and socks.
__________________
Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Great Idea! I have an ebony bridge kicking around somewhere…
|
#23
|
||||
|
||||
I have a pick box my wife got me several years ago that I drilled holes in and use for bridge pins when I'm changing strings. Works fine and serves its primary purpose of holding picks too.
0-1 by Ray, on Flickr 0 by Ray, on Flickr -Ray
__________________
"It's just honest human stuff that hadn't been near a dang metronome in its life" - Benmont Tench |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
When I first changed out the strings on an OM Max Spohn built for me, I discovered that he had etched the pin hole designation on each. That is real attention to detail - where it does not show. Of course, they disappear just as easy...
David
__________________
I took up the guitar at 62 as penance for a youth well-spent. |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Yours is classier than mine - a scrap of pine with 6 holes drilled into it. And E written on one end and e on the other.
|
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
It should not require the string ball end to put pressure against the pin shaft to hold it in place. Over time that's exactly what causes bridge plate failure. It may take a long time for that to happen, but some guitars develop problems more quickly, like the pins dislodging from the pressure being exerted on them by the ball ends. I'm not trying to be doomsday, just saying that a properly fitted pin should stay in place without the need for string pressure. Martin has even determined that fitting pins isn't even necessary on most of their guitars. Tapered bridge pin stuck in a straight drilled hole. I won't comment on that. |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
Very cool. You should sell those.
|