Bridge pins with through hole underneath head?(Update,the plot thickens on 2nd page)

[Slimt]

It almost looks like the person had a idea the ball end at the back the string going through the hole would prevent the pin from working its way out and changing the tuning. Kind of like a locking bridge. Just a thought.

[TTiimm]

What make and model is the guitar?

[Brushwood]

Originally Posted by TTiimm

What make and model is the guitar?

It’s a Pono PGKC built somewhere around 2008-2010. Size around a 0. I made a NGD post about it not so long ago and just replied there, so that post with pics should be just a few following this thread.

[TTiimm]

Originally Posted by Brushwood

It’s a Pono PGKC built somewhere around 2008-2010. Size around a 0. I made a NGD post about it not so long ago and just replied there, so that post with pics should be just a few following this thread.

Oh my. That confuses me even more. Really pretty though.


-Tim-

[JayBee1404]

Originally Posted by guitararmy

Yup the string lays in that groove when you insert it in the bridge hole and then you pull the string until the ball end stops at the pin

Ha! Exactly as I’ve been visualising it! Thanks for that!

[guitararmy]

I still have several sets of the brass EZ Pegs, not using them because I have been trying 1/8" aluminum rivet washers instead of bridge pins.
I think I heard of the idea on the AGF.
I think it couples the ball end of the string to the bridge plate but it might just be wishful thinking and hearing.

[Brushwood]

Originally Posted by guitararmy

I have some brass E-Z Pegs which were around about 10-15 years ago that were made like that.

The ball end was threaded through the hole but not pulled up against it until after the ball end and the pin were pushed through the bridge pin hole.

It kept the ball end from chewing up the bridge plate. Also good if the plate was already damaged.

I think you solved the mystery guitararmy! IMG_1691.jpg
As you can see, I found a diagram of the brass E-Z pins you mentioned and this looks like what was being tried on these wooden pins. I wonder how applying this affects the tone...for example the bass response?

[AcousticDreams]

Originally Posted by Brushwood

I think you solved the mystery guitararmy! Attachment 69409
As you can see, I found a diagram of the brass E-Z pins you mentioned and this looks like what was being tried on these wooden pins. I wonder how applying this affects the tone...for example the bass response?

O.K...I am now officially fascinated by this.

And I am also curious to know what the effects are.

From the Diagram, it would seem that its real claim of value, is locking the bridge pin? So better transference?

I would also think...that not all wood bridge pins could take the pressure? I use a custom set of Medium, where the Low E. is at .058. Heavier pressure..Could a wood bridge Pin take this?

But more importantly what are suppose to be the gained sound benefit?

[Russ C]

It would be extra important to push the pins up from underneath if they are a firm fit or there may be a few replacements needed.

[toneseeker]

I've seen this on photos of a Samick Yairi S model

https://www.dropbox.com/s/htmokzyagq...74627.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/be60ksrobf...74641.jpg?dl=0

[toneseeker]

Here is the page on which I saw the pins for the Samick Yairi S model.

https://blog.naver.com/twocircles/220453937526

[LuckyDan]

Originally Posted by Brushwood

I think you solved the mystery guitararmy! Attachment 69409
As you can see, I found a diagram of the brass E-Z pins you mentioned and this looks like what was being tried on these wooden pins. I wonder how applying this affects the tone...for example the bass response?

I'll take 3 sets. This is genius. Should be standard by now.

[Nctom]

I bought a guitar some years ago, I can't remember the brand now, that had this type pin. One broke across the grain at the hole so I replaced the set with bone. I have not seen this done before or since.

I have wracked my brain trying to recall the make of the guitar but cannot. With the exception of one Yairi, all my guitars have been Martins or Gibsons so I just can't remember which one was so equipped.

[Brushwood]

Okay folks...the plot thickens. Turns out the bridge pins are straight and not tapered at all. The holes in the bridge are drilled the same way. Measurements on the pin is approximately .1880” below head as well as at the tip. Because they seemed to be more fragile and possibly prone to breaking because of the through hole I was going to replace the pins to “normal” ones when I discovered this was the case. Now what? Are any pins made straight and if so who sells them or are using straight pins/holes a no no? Should I have someone ream out the existing “non-tapered” hole to a more standard taper or is the existing hole too big now to do that? Should I have someone plug the existing holes and have new ones made to a standard taper? Will putting new tapered pins in a straight hole cause physical or tone issues with the guitar because of the wiggle room left around the pin? In a quandary now. ((See a happy ending update to this on pg 3 that I posted on 2/15/22))
IMG_1644443780.751794.jpg

[Russ C]

I’d first look at making, or getting made, some pins that fit your guitar and slotting the bridge if slotting the pins is harder or not your preference. Most prefer that anyway.
If the bridge plate inside your guitar is chewed up your suggestion of renovating the holes is probably a better idea. I’d check that first.