#1
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Nut of 1 3/4 vs 1 11/16; It's only 1/16"
Most of my guitars are 1 3/4" at the nut. I look at that and wonder why it all is such a big deal to me. It seems, unless I deceive myself, that I can really tell a difference between the two. I mean, a 1/16". really?
I have been looking for a 0000-15M and find they are only in the 1 11/16" nut width. How much could a person adjust or change the string spacing at the nut so as to really minimize the difference as much as possible. Does this make any sense at all? |
#2
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Depends. I have cts on my fretting hand. I know neck profile makes a big difference as well but I can tell
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#3
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widening string spacing depends on whether the spacing is already at it's widest possible and how the fret ends are finished.
Some builders/manufacturers pinch in the spacing a bit from the start - in that case it can usually be widened minimally, given the frets aren't rounded too much. Narrowing the spacing slightly on your 1 3/4 would be very easy for a good tech. 1/16 is a huge difference for some of us - I can barely play most 1 3/4, 1 11/16 just isn't going to happen
__________________
"One small heart, and a great big soul that's driving" |
#4
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I have 3 different widths and can switch easily, but you can feel the difference without a doubt.
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#5
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Me too. It's one of the specs I choose to ignore. It is very real though.
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#6
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I have kinda small hands. My neck is spec'd at 11/16 but actually measures a touch under. It's perfect for me and any more is too big.
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#7
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Nut width
1/16" sounds like it would be nothing, but you can feel the difference, especially with finger style maybe it's a combination of nut width and neck profile.
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#8
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I am watching, with interest, all the comments. I fully understand those of you who say that you can definitely feel the difference. I know, so can I! It just seems like such a little amount. However, I realize that a 1/16" splinter could very easily be a great big thing. I'm just trying to figure out how I could make the 0000-15M, with its 1 11/16" nut, more fitting to what I'm "used" to.
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#9
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Just today I cut a new nut for my HD28V (1-11/16). I moved the first and sixth strings out as far as possible and equalized the remaining space for other strings. It made a HUGE difference, and caused me to reconsider selling it and moving into something with a wider neck. It isn't as wide (obviously) as my 1-3/4 nut Larrivee, but is much more comfortable than it was with the stock nut.
RB |
#10
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I confess to being someone who has always said that people who made a big deal about nut width were a persnickety bunch, as I was able to switch between my 1 11/16" Martin and my 1.72" Gibson necks with ease.
Well, consider this an admission of ignorance. I very recently bought a Martin D15SM, a 12-fret slothead dread with a 1 3/4" nut and a 2 1/4" saddle spacing. The first week I had it, I thought I had made a huge mistake; my fretting fingers were sore, and I just couldn't get comfortable with it. I measured the action at the saddle and nut, checked the neck relief, and made all kinds of inquiries to figure out what was "wrong" with my new guitar. Turns out, that measly 16th-of-an-inch makes a BIG difference! Now that I've been playing it for a couple of weeks, it's getting quite comfortable. I haven't changed a thing about it -- same nut slot depth, string gauge, and saddle -- it just took this long to acclimate to the new width, much to my surprise. Now that I'm used to it, however, I have a new dilemma: my other guitars' necks feel noticeably skinny, and my fingers feel cramped in that tiny 1 11/16" width. Until now, I never imagined that the difference would be so profound, but I'm a believer. Ironically, if I had to pick one width for all of my guitars, I'd probably lean towards the 1 3/4". |
#11
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it takes a 300 ton hydraulic press to put a die that is 0.0010"bigger than the hole it is going into.
Actually it is a 700 ton press, and you have to be trained to use it... 1 11/16" die and the hole that it went in to was only ten thousands of an inch smaller. |
#12
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Nut width is only part of the story. Neck shape/profile and E-to-e string spacing are the others. It either works well together or it doesn't.
I had a wonderful HD-28 I purchased back in Jan of this year, probably the best one I've ever played. Sold it 6 mos later... couldn't adapt to the skinny Low Profile neck and tight string spacing. Got rid of a Gibson AJ for the same reason. Don't force it -- plenty of other fish in the sea.
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Merrill | Martin | Collings | Gibson For Sale: 2023 Collings D2H 1 3/4 Nut, Adi Bracing, NTB -- $4100 shipped |
#13
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I loved my 000-15M but sold it due to the narrow nut and low neck profile. I tried to get over it, but having other guitars that had the right neck (for me), made it impossible . . .
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#14
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I love 1 11/16" for playing up the neck and barre chords but hate it for everything else. Perhaps the people who can change back and forth have narrower fingertips than I do. Even on my 1.72" Gibsons I feel like a tiny bit more space would be welcome for playing close to the nut. On my long-scale SWD it's actually no problem at all, I only really notice that it's a bit tight on the short-scale J-45, but I'm adjusting.
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#15
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I have three different nut widths. No issues.
However I remain shocked by how much I enjoy the neck on my Texan. I am coming to truly refer it. At 1 5/8, it is another 1/16 skinnier. FWIW, I have relatively big palms and normal sized fingers. Again, I have no issues with the necks on my 1 11/16 Collings or my 1 3/4 Taylor. Love em both.
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Respectfully, Mike Taylor 415 --- Epiphone Texan --- Collings D1A --- Martin 5-15 --- etc Take a sad song and make it better. |