Best method to narrow a 2.25" saddle spacing to 2.20". Old thread advice.

[tippy5]

Has anybody narrowed their saddle spacing with the below method proposed by Paul W. (2008 post)?
Below that method is a reply, to that post, that Bob Colosi essentially agrees with its approach.
Thanks for the help and Happy Musical Holidays.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PWoolson View Post
I think filling the hole and redrilling is the best long-term approach. He could put a piece of tape over the hole on the inside and then fills the hole with an epoxy/wood dust (to match the color of the bridge) combination, let it set up and then redrill and taper a new hole. That would work pretty well.
Notching the saddle can work but as you said, it can pinch the strings and cause breakage.

What Paul said.... This is the most structurally correct way to change your string spacing at the saddle. Bryan Kimsey also accurately pointed out that in the big picture, it is in all likelihood not going to make a huge difference as the neck on that guitar was designed to fit the spacing on that bridge. I'm just speaking in "averages" here, but on most guitars, moving the high E string over anything more than about .050" puts the string too close to the edge of the fretboard. Other than a few very rare and unique designs, an acoustic guitar's saddle is not designed to operate correctly with notches cut into it. Even on those unique designs, the string passes absolutely straight over the slot as it emerges from the pin hole, and the guitar is designed for that spacing. I'm not saying it can't be done, but you do run the risk of causing other problems by doing that. All saddles will develop wear grooves in the crown over time, but that is very different than pre-cutting slots in the saddle to capture the string. If I had a guitar that absolutely had to have its string moved, I probably would notch a temporary saddle, play it to see if the geometry allowed it, then reposition the pinhole.
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Bob Colosi
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