#16
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It seems to me that any capo would need some extra pressure at the first fret - and correspondingly less as you go up the neck. A string stretched between two points is easier pushed when in the middle. Or notice it's easier to bend strings away from the first fret. Now, multiply this tiny extra difficulty by 6. Not surprising. What would be surprising would be the discovery that some capos handle this better than others. To me, it says some manufacturers pay greater attention to this phenomenon than others. Or are better able to avoid this.
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#17
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An additional thing about the first fret is some fretboards have a different radius near the nut that farther up the neck. So a particular capo may fit better at the nut and worse up the neck or vice versa.
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Grabbed his jacket Put on his walking shoes Last seen, six feet under Singing the I've Wasted My Whole Life Blues ---Warren Malone "Whole Life Blues" |
#18
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Thanks for all the responses. |
#19
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I must be in the minority. I don’t normally use a capo on the first fret, so I just tested my G7 capo on the first fret of several guitars, including a fairly new HD-35 with nut slots cut from the factory, and I didn’t get any buzzing. I used what I consider to be “moderate” pressure—that is, enough to press the strings down but not so much to cause strings to go sharp—and it worked fine. I didn’t even need to snug it up against the fret.
I went a little capo-crazy last year and bought a bunch of premium capos (a couple of Elliotts,* a couple of Thalias, the G7, etc.) and, despite the “capo wars” that sprout up here from time to time (when low humidity isn’t the hot topic), they all work fine. They all have their pluses and mostly very minor minuses. The things I like about the G7 capo is that it is relatively light and is quick to take on and off. At the end of the day, if it doesn’t work for you, I wouldn’t go crazy trying to troubleshoot it. If you can exchange it for a different capo, go ahead. Otherwise, I’m sure you can sell it to someone for whom it will work fine, or you can keep it and use it above the first fret. * When I got the first Elliott, I didn’t realize they made a left-handed version, so when I came across one here in the classifieds I couldn’t resist picking it up. |
#20
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Personally, I almost returned mine: compared to a couple of cheaper ones I have, I really didn't find much of a difference, consistently, in terms of playing in tune. I kept it and use it because I think it sounds better: the material they use for the pad IMO just sounds better than what the others I've tried use, and that was enough for me. |
#21
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Thanks Don, for this great advice. It does indeed appear that this capo needs some time to break in due to the somewhat advanced design. After installing and removing repeatedly over the past day or so, it is now working flawlessly, even on the first fret. I am really glad, because I love the design and how easy it is to put on and remove, in addition to not having to retune. Thanks a bunch to everyone who was so helpful here. |
#22
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So after reading all the comments, if it were me, I would buy a Shubb capo and be done with the problem.
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Happiness Is A New Set Of Strings L-20A |
#23
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I was feeling the same, but once this capo works properly, it is really amazing to use. It turns out that it takes some time to break in the capo. I am really happy with it now. But it is true that the initial experience was far from ideal. But once this started working properly, it was definitely the best capo I have used in terms of being out of your way and ease of applying and removing.
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#24
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I bought a G7 capo when they first hit the market and I’m glad I did. It gave me immunity from any hype about other super-duper, gotta-have-it devices that have since come down the pike.
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Some Acoustic Videos |
#25
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I wonder how many people complaining that they don't work are trying to use them upside down? I've seen it done - people are so used to putting their old capo on upside down they assume they can do it with a G7th... you can't!
I've used one for a few years on a multitude of different guitars - different neck widths, different actions (from very low to way too high for my comfort) and not once have I ever had a buzzing. I'm not careful about where I put it, I don't squeeze it stupidly hard... I put it on somewhere between halfway and the fret, give it a quick squeeze and start playing, without giving it another thought. That's strumming, fingerpicking...
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My guitars : Huss and Dalton 00-SP Martin OM21 Martin 000-17SM Sigma SDM-18S Naylor 'Spered Evel' custom made |
#26
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Just for reference. Put a capo on at the first, second, or third fret.
Look at the gap between the string and the next fret. Pretty thin huh? Now remove your capo. How much bigger is the gap above the first fret? It should be about the same. |
#27
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I’ve had this discussion with a number of individuals whose use of their capos is what I would describe as ‘uspide-down’. Unsurprisingly, perhaps, they invariably tell me I’m using my capo ‘upside-down’! Just a suggestion for clarity’s sake….
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#28
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The 'correct' way for a G7th is with the hinge side at the low E, and the open end at the high E. The other way around doesn't give enough pressure at the open end to hold the thicker string properly, and also allows the capo to slip as the weight and gravity conspire...
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My guitars : Huss and Dalton 00-SP Martin OM21 Martin 000-17SM Sigma SDM-18S Naylor 'Spered Evel' custom made |
#29
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I had the same problem until i bought this one https://paigecapo.com/product/origin...rofile-p-6e-w/
The best and most stable capo i have ever owned.
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Jan |
#30
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I agree, having tried a couple of G7th capos on different guitars, the basic Shubb will give you much less trouble. I have found that the thickness of the guitar neck has a huge effect on the functionality of the G7th performance capos. The G7th Newport works much better for me and it is cheaper and coincidentally more like a Shubb!
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