Changing nylon strings on slothead

[airborne1]

I’m sorry for this simplistic question, but a search has come up empty.

When changing nylon strings on a slot head, is the process the same as changing steel strings on a steel string guitar?

I’m aware of internet videos, but I’m unsure if the process is the same.

Thanks in advance for any opinions!

[TBman]

Originally Posted by airborne1

I’m sorry for this simplistic question, but a search has come up empty.

When changing nylon strings on a slot head, is the process the same as changing steel strings on a steel string guitar?

I’m aware of internet videos, but I’m unsure if the process is the same.

Thanks in advance for any opinions!

Yes, it's the same as a steel string slot head, with the only difference being you have to tie the strings at the bridge instead of there being bridge pins.

I use string beads instead of tying because I'm a klutz (and when you follow the directions they work really well)

Diamond Bridge Beads. They sell them on Amazon too.

When I put the treble strings through the winding post I come around and put it through again. This way I don't have to worry about "trapping" the string to prevent slippage.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by airborne1

I’m sorry for this simplistic question, but a search has come up empty.

When changing nylon strings on a slot head, is the process the same as changing steel strings on a steel string guitar?

I’m aware of internet videos, but I’m unsure if the process is the same.

Thanks in advance for any opinions!

Not the same, but similar. The difference is the process of attaching to the bridge and the way the string attaches at the tuner string post. Both ends are important to do correctly so there's no slippage.

Do watch some videos.

For the bridge, I much prefer bridge attachment so each successive string locks the tail of the previously installed string. This reduces any chance of slipping, prevents the tail from damaging the soft top surface, and keeps any string tail from scratching your hand or arm while playing.

At the tuner I prefer the string locking under the first wrap with the remaining turns usually go to the inside, but that might be opposite on strings 1 and 6 depending on the design of the guitar. The objective is to have a fairly straight angle to the nut slot, but without touching the thimble area of the headstock slot.

[Gitfiddlemann]

It's not a simplistic question at all. It's quite important, and a good one to get more info on if you're not sure.
At the bridge, it's quite different of course. But at the slot head, the principles are very similar. You want to minimize tensions as much as possible, and keep the string lines as straight as you can.
This will help you in this regard:
Wind the bottom and top E strings toward the outside of the slot head, i.e. toward the tuners.
Wind the inside strings toward the inside of the slot head, away from the tuners.
That will minimize string tension on the nut especially, and keep the strings fairly straight.
You don't need a lot of windings either.
This is a good pic to follow as a model:

[Bowie]

I find I can use far fewer winds on a steel strings so I'd say they are different for me. With classical strings, I make sure the strings is laying on top of itself. This allows for fewer windings, which in turn means better tuning stability.

[CoastStrings]

I use this method. Easy on. Easy off.

When installing carbon trebles, I add one more loop.

[hesson11]

One thing to keep in mind: With steel strings, you want to leave some slack when you wind the strings onto the headstock rollers. Not so with nylons. Nylons take a long time to stretch in coming up to tune. That includes all the windings on the rollers. So I prefer to pull the strings as tight as possible at the headstock end before starting to roll them up. There are lots of good videos out there on the Net.