#1
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Strings are not fully "ringing"
The B and E strings (2nd and 1st strings) are not fully ringing. The D string does this also on one guitar. There's just a little buzz at the saddle. This happens when they're played open and when they're fretted. I've adjusted the neck up a little, thinking they may somehow be too close to the frets (again, this happens with open plucking), tried different gauge strings, etc. I humidify the guitars - too much or not enough? I tried some graphite on the saddle and that didn't work. The guitars don't sound bad, just not as good as when they were new. Some say they can't hear it when I play, but I sure do! It takes some of the joy out of playing. I guess I need to go see my luthier. Any and all ideas are welcome! A Taylor 414Ce-R and Martin D35.
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#2
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Hi and welcome to the forum!
As you say, it might be time for a proper setup. How's your humidity control been on these guitars ?
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Merrill | Martin | Collings | Gibson For Sale: 2023 Collings D2H 1 3/4 Nut, Adi Bracing, NTB -- $4100 shipped |
#3
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I've been humifying them with a Planet Waves humidifer -- remoistening it about once a week (it's all dried out by then). I just played the Taylor - I think that all the strings are this way - it's just easy to hear on the B and E.
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#4
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So many variables and possibilities. Take it to an expert for a setup and they can tell you the tweaks they need to do. Good luck!
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#5
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We can take blind guesses but it sounds like you need to take it in for a look. I wouldn't recommend working on your guitar until you have a good sense of what causes buzzing, muting, etc. It's easy to make repairs even more expensive if you end up needing them to make a new nut, etc.
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#6
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If they’ve not been setup properly it’s always worth getting that done and that by definition will have them playing their best. Start learning to do it yourself by all means except on those guitars - they warrant being in experienced hands.
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#7
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Quote:
As others have said, there are a number reasons that could cause that. A proper evaluation with the guitar in hand, or at least some careful evaluation and measurements from you would be needed to really be much help.
__________________
"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#8
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Yes - I adjusted the truss rod to raise the strings a very small amount. Then adjusted it back the other way. I appreciate all of the advice from everyone and will take them to a luthier for a good look.
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#9
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You should never use truss rod adjustment as a means to control string height. The truss rod is used to set the proper neck relief. Some prefer a relatively flat neck while others prefer a slight amount of relief. String height will vary as a side effect of relief change but as stated should not be used to adjust string height. Once the proper relief is set the next thing to check is the string height at the nut. Too high and guitar becomes difficult to fret. Too low or tight and it will introduce buzzing. The last thing to check/agjust is string height at the 12th fret. You control the string height by raising or lowering the saddle. Many guitar enthusiast learn how to perform their own setups. It is not hard to do if you are handy and grasp the physics behind a guitar setup. Others seek out having a setup done by a trained professional. At this point you should have a respected luthier have a look at your guitar and solve the problem. Good luck.
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#10
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Just a thought.
You mentioned about guitar humidity, not that this is the problem you're experiencing but, get a *hygrometer* then you'll know exactly (or close enough) to what your RH levels are.
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Herman |
#11
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Strings not fully ringing, eh?
Try putting them on a Washburn Bell-style guitar: Or, even a May-Bell guitar: Or, even a Gallagher Bluegrass Bell guitar:
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The Acoustic Guitar of Inyo: 30 solo acoustic covers on a 1976 Martin D-35 33 solo acoustic 6-string guitar covers 35 solo acoustic 12-string covers 32 original acoustic compositions on 6 and 12-string guitars 66 acoustic tunes on 6 and 12-string guitars 33 solo alternate takes of my covers Inyo and Folks--159 songs |
#12
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I’ve had the same thing with a few guitars. The neck was (almost) straight. The nut slots looked good. The action seemed not overly low… and that dastardly metallic ping on those strings was inescapable.
I ordered new saddles. One Tusq and one bone. But good quality. I also made sure the point of contact on the B and high E was not too flat, if that makes sense.
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i got tired of updating my guitars. |
#13
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Have you checked to make sure all of the ball ends are seated properly? Pins not seated correctly can cause the symptoms you describe.
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#14
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I'm a big advocate of having a gal/guy for everything. I find it's much easier, and faster, to have an expert evaluate and fix an issue than me taking my time to chase it down. Everyone needs a complete set up on every guitar. In other words, every guitar will benefit from a full evaluation / tune up by someone not doing a little at a time. They will evaluate your humidity (this must be proper first), nut, saddle, frets, neck angle, neck relief, string height and set everything up the way you want it. It's the best +/- $100 you can spend on any guitar.
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Don't get upset, it's just my experienced opinion, Steve |
#15
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Quote:
From the description, it sounds like that part of the saddle is flat on these guitars. Here's what that means: As the string rises from the pinsocket up to and over the saddle, it passes over a specific point that is the high spot in the saddle for that string. The saddle is typically around 1/8" thick, so using a file you have around 1/8" of intonation adjustment available; that is, you can pick the high spot to be anywhere along that ~1/8" distance. But the top of the saddle can't be flat, you have to have a specific edge (though it can be sharp/angular or rounded). If the saddle is flat, the string buzzes against the flat spot.
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