The Appeal of the Slot Head

[koko61]

I love them, in fact two of my guitars have it, but I consider that changing strings is more complicated

[musicman1951]

I like the way they look. My only slot head is my classical, but I don't restringing an issue. I wouldn't purchase a guitar specifically for the slot head, but I'd be happy if a guitar I loved had one.

[iim7V7IM7]

Slothead headstocks are fine as are paddlehead headstocks. I tend to out of aesthetic tradition prefer slotheads on 12-fret to the body instruments (although I have two 12-frets that are paddleheads). Changing strings, tuning ergonomic and break angle tuning stability distinctions even if they exist are in the "noise" for me. I change strings easily on each, adjust tuning and my guitars remain in tune in either case. We tend to focus on esoteric minutia on guitar forums. So, it is not one or the other for me but both.

My advice if someone does not have one and they are afraid of changing strings, is after you do it once or twice, you'll find it as easy as a paddlehead. I use a method where I cut the string about one tuner higher on wound strings and 1-1/2 tuners on the B and E strings. Have the post holes facing the nut. With a needle nose pliers I bend a small "S" shape in the string end. When you place the "S" shape end through the post hole from the end of the headstock side, it stays in the post hole. You are now free to wind the string. TJ Thompson demonstrates this method in the video below.

[Wellington]

I have one slot head, the only one I've had, I'm a fan of the style for sure, I also don't see the big deal in changing strings

[min7b5]

As per the re-stringing issue, I still contend it's easier/faster with a slot head. I have always pre-cut the string length of new strings for any guitar I'm re-stringing, so that it eliminates the problem of having to trim the string afterward within the slots, which I can imagine would be difficult. Other than that, typically the poles are longer on a slot head, so it's easier to have more windings if you so choose, and without having to potentially pull the string back out and trim again if you're running out of enough pole to get the winding around.. *But mainly, it's about the tuning buttons all facing the same direction. I am usually seated with the guitar on a stand facing to my right of when I change strings, and there's no need to move myself or the guitar at all.

[mclarry53]

I got my first slot head a few months ago and I admit I find changing strings on it more difficult than on a paddle head. Perhaps with practice it will become more automatic and I appreciate folks sharing their methods.

Several have mentioned cutting the string before winding. My question is how does this work with round core strings which caution that they should not be cut until under tension?

[Sugar Bear]

Re-stringing a slot-head is actually less of a pain than with a paddle-head, once you know the trick.

Start at the other end. It's not a paddle-head.

[Sugar Bear]

Originally Posted by mclarry53

Several have mentioned cutting the string before winding. My question is how does this work with round core strings which caution that they should not be cut until under tension?

The same way it does with a paddle-head. Don't cut them until they're under tension.

Just take your time and guide the ends through until they're up to pitch, then you can clip them off. Don't cut them back too short.

Change the strings one at a time so you don't have the ends of all six strings wrestling with each other like eels mating.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by mclarry53

I got my first slot head a few months ago and I admit I find changing strings on it more difficult than on a paddle head. Perhaps with practice it will become more automatic and I appreciate folks sharing their methods.

Several have mentioned cutting the string before winding. My question is how does this work with round core strings which caution that they should not be cut until under tension?

Simple.

Make the sharp bend in the string FIRST, then cut it off 1/2" past the bend. The sharp bend prevents the winding wrap from loosening on the core.

This also prevents denting or marking up your slots since the string is "pre-cut" and doesn't require that you get anywhere close to your guitar with diagonal cutters or any other implement that is sometimes used for cutting excess sting length.

[brad4d8]

I got my first 12 fretters this year, both Guild Orpheums, one a paddle head dread and the other a slothead OOO. I always thought a 12 fret just didn't look right with a paddle head, but the dread is not too bad looking. As to changing strings, I was surprised that I had a little trouble as I've been changing strings on my classicals for about 50 years and figured the change would be similar, but it was a little more difficult, but I imagine after another one or two changes it will be natural.

[Wadcutter]

Originally Posted by KenL

Thanks, Wadcutter! Here's a photo I took yesterday:

Attachment 64951

Awesome, and love the pooch in there too!

[dnf777]

After playing my new Taylor 322ce slithead, another advantage is theres nothing to get in the wat of your clip on tuner at the top of the head!

[TBman]

I like the look of them, I have 3 with a slot head - 1 00 steel string and 2 classicals. I had major gas for the 12 fret 00 slot head before I finally got one and now I hardly ever play it as my musical tastes have changed.

It is a nice look and they do photograph well.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by Wadcutter

I’ve owned a few slot head guitars over the years and thought they were all excellent instruments and really wish I had held on to at least one, but alas, I gave the last one I had to my grandson for his 18th birthday a few years ago. He really loves that guitar and it has encouraged him to play and practice even more. Was wondering if any of you guys actually prefer slot heads over traditional solid head guitars and why. I think they look cool as all get out myself. I know some folks complain about restringing them, but I never really thought it was any big deal. Anyway, would love to hear your comments, opinions, pics, etc, on slot heads.

Hi W-cutter
I own a Recording King all-solid copy of a mid 1920s Martin 000-18 which is slot-head.

The appeals to me are the 12 fret fingerboard, 1¹³/₁₆" fingerboard, more immediate response, boxier tone, contrasting with my three other acoustics guitars which have robust low end, bigger voices, and they tend to sustain forever.

It's a great little backing guitar which kind of barks it's way through the mix instead of growling. It's good for ragtime, and quick lead lines. Works well playing percussive rhythm.

The only thing I'm not crazy about is the slot head. It's a challenge for me to get up my gumption to change strings. It often has dead strings for an extra week or two (maybe a month).

The slot-head doesn't disqualify it. I owned it for a number of years, and my gigging partner bought it from me. I re-acquired it after it being gone for about half-decade.