G string snapped

[YamahaGuy]

A G string core is very very small: like an 0.09 or an .08. They (wound g strings) break easily.

[Murphy Slaw]

Originally Posted by YamahaGuy

A G string core is very very small: like an 0.09 or an .08. They (wound g strings) break easily.

This.

What I find, if I use the same set of strings for a long time, is the outer wrap will break first on the G string at the second fret. I play a LOT of leads alongside chords, and that A note is used for nearly every single key at some point. It gets (perhaps) the most use alongside mucho tremolo/vibrato usage and will wear through the outer wrap before anything else gives up 9 times out of 10.

Sometimes the inner core will hold on long enough for the broken outer wrap to "get ya" as well.

[guitar344]

Do Elixirs have thinner cores than D addario?

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by guitar344

Do Elixirs have thinner cores than D addario?

Hi g-344
Not that I've ever heard of. I don't think so. I think it's more along the lines of "Which paper clip brand can you bend back and forth more times before it breaks?" issue. Of solid sounding and great playing strings, Elixir's 3rd string breaks before others. And the BIG question is CAN IT BE PREVENTED and HOW CAN IT BE PREVENTED?

If you are wondering why the 3rd strings break more easily, it likely has to do with the amount of tension at the pitch to which the string is being tuned. And the tuning of the strings around it affect the tension as well. When tuning to CGCGCD, the 2nd string (normally b) easily tunes up ½ step to 'C' easily because of all the extra 'slack' from having String 6 tuned a step low, String 5 a step low, String 4 a step low, and String 1 a step low.

It's probably the most often broken above the nut by finger stylers…whereas heavy strummers who dig into the string bed with picks tend to sheer them at the saddle.

And even-ness of tone between strings is the goal versus tensile strength is desirable. The pitches we tune to came first, then the string designs.

The core of sets of strings of every string brand are thicker as the diameter increases. Some companies have 6-7 weights of strings...
X light .010 top
Custom light .011 top
Light .011 or .012 top
Light/heavy .012 top (med bottom 3)
Medium .013 top
Medium heavy .013 (heavier bottom 3)
Heavy…Some brands have a heavy set with .014 top

There is a lot of fiddling with strings for some players, not so much for others. Changing weights does affect action and intonation, though not as drastically with small changes.

And some players' ears are more tuned to the differences, while others' fingers are more sensitive to weight changes.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by Bluenose

As Robin Wales said rub some pencil graphite into the g string nut slot.

Hi B-nose…
There are indicaters of sticking nut slots. Usually the slot holds the string when loosening till the tension finally 'pops' as it moves to catch up with the tuner. If the slot is gripping the string and holding it till it gets loose enough to pop, it's likely to break.

This can snap strings with enough force to break them, but it snaps them at the nut or between the nut and tuner (closer to the nut). And it always makes noise (a high ping or pop). And usually when loosening.

When they snap right at the tuner, it's being affected by different forces than when snapping at the nut (or halfway to the tuner shaft from the nut). And these can break tuning up or down.

It's pretty easy to just hold a broken string and see where the break is - at the tuner shaft, between the shaft and the nut, midway down the fret board, or at the saddle.

I never use graphite from pencils in nut slots, but have had all the slots properly cut. I'm sure it works, but it all mine are white, and I don't like the residue pencil-dust leaves.

All of my instruments have been properly adjusted by a luthier during setup decades ago (all of my guitars have the original nut, and all have been setup professionally). I have not lubricated nut slots in a couple decades.

[tinnitus]

I'd say that one broken string is hardly indicative of any kind of trend, defect or suspect brand. Strings are consumables, even when they don't break. My first thought if I broke one (and I'm not very nice to my strings) would be where it broke.

An old guitar with a trapeze bridge might be sharp/jagged around the hole at the ball end.

Bridge saddle? Nut?

How about at the hole through the tuner post? Gibson knot? Luthier's knot?

How old was that string?

[abn556]

I broke a couple of strings lately. First time in decades that I have two broken strings in the same 3 month period. Both times it was after tuning back up to standard tuning after having been down in CGCFCE tuning. Both strings- a G and a B broke at the tuner shaft. Different guitars. And I have nut files so the strings are not hanging on the nut.

[Bluenose]

Originally Posted by ljguitar

Hi B-nose…
There are indicaters of sticking nut slots. Usually the slot holds the string when loosening till the tension finally 'pops' as it moves to catch up with the tuner. If the slot is gripping the string and holding it till it gets loose enough to pop, it's likely to break.

This can snap strings with enough force to break them, but it snaps them at the nut or between the nut and tuner (closer to the nut). And it always makes noise (a high ping or pop). And usually when loosening.

When they snap right at the tuner, it's being affected by different forces than when snapping at the nut (or halfway to the tuner shaft from the nut). And these can break tuning up or down.

It's pretty easy to just hold a broken string and see where the break is - at the tuner shaft, between the shaft and the nut, midway down the fret board, or at the saddle.

I never use graphite from pencils in nut slots, but have had all the slots properly cut. I'm sure it works, but it all mine are white, and I don't like the residue pencil-dust leaves.

All of my instruments have been properly adjusted by a luthier during setup decades ago (all of my guitars have the original nut, and all have been setup professionally). I have not lubricated nut slots in a couple decades.

Wow it's probably a good thing I didn't mention that I 'fixed' a nut on one of my guitars by filling a deep slot with baking soda and crazy glue a couple of days ago.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by Bluenose

Wow it's probably a good thing I didn't mention that I 'fixed' a nut on one of my guitars by filling a deep slot with baking soda and crazy glue a couple of days ago.

Hi Bluenose…
No judgement here…

Who hasn't? I've done emergency repairs. Long term (I've been playing more than 60 years) I have them done up properly on my main guitars.

I'm not a teenager any more nor impoverished and like to stack the deck in favor of elimination of risky gear…

[phavriluk]

Originally Posted by abn556

If you get a ping when you are tuning up to pitch, your string is hanging on the nut slots. You can get a nozzle file set from Ace Hardware for less than $10 that works great for opening up your nut slots. You don’t need the $300 set from StewMac. Note - do not file down. Just gently work the file against the corners of the nut slot to open it up just enough so the string doesn’t hang.

In case the term 'nozzle file' gets blank looks, it's a set of rough-and-ready round files of varying diameters in a metal case that are used to clean the nozzles of welding torches.

[Bluenose]

Originally Posted by ljguitar

Hi Bluenose…
No judgement here…

Who hasn't? I've done emergency repairs. Long term (I've been playing more than 60 years) I have them done up properly on my main guitars.

I'm not a teenager any more nor impoverished and like to stack the deck in favor of elimination of risky gear…

Hey Larry _ I'm not a teenager nor impoverished either in fact I just turned 70 and do quite well on my Public Service pension. I know you are just trying to be helpful but I did find your lengthy response my one line post to be somewhat judgmental and your tone condescending as well. I thought you might like some feedback.