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Update - Martin D18 saddle / setup
Firstly, thanks everyone who responded to my earlier post. There were some very informative replies with great links to the technical stuff. ANyway, I have removed the saddle ( very stubborn - tighter on one side ) and have sanded down a replacement to the very bare minimum - about 1/16+ above the bridge on the high e end. The result puts the high e string just where I want it at 12th fret. The action is much lower - easier to play and I think the guitar sounds better too. I have elixir lights on so I guess the action would be higher with heavier ones. I haven't touched the truss rod or anything bar the saddle so I don't think I should have invalidated any warranty- ( the guitar is brand new ) I do find it strange that Martin craftsmen don't build in a little more leeway for action tweaking.
Once again, thanks for all the replies. When I get round to it, I think I will let a proper luthier take a look - see what they think. All were very busy ( for at least 2 months ) when i phoned - and all are some distance away. Hey ho ....just hope it wasn't one of the duds that needed neck reset! |
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I hope you at least checked the relief before sanding the saddle.
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"Without music, life would be a mistake.” |
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+1 on this. Before I adjust the action on any guitar, I take all the relief out with the truss rod adjustment for a perfectly flat neck. Then add a bit back in after adjusting nut and saddle. The saddle is usually the last component I touch when doing a set up.
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Martin HD-35, Martin D-35, Martin 000-28EC, Martin D-1, Martin DR, Martin DXM, Gibson J-45, Recording King RD-16, Lucida Concerto LG-777, Fender Stratocaster (8), Gibson ES-335, Gibson SG Standard (2), Epiphone ES-335 Pro LTD., Epiphone Lennon Casino, Epiphone Casino (Peerless), Epiphone Casino (China), Firefly FF-338 |