Do you do your own setups?

[Pdubs76]

If so, what tool kit would you recommend? I’m thinking of trying it, but I’m a little nervous! Any do’s and don’ts that I should know of would be greatly appreciated.

[Dru Edwards]

I bought 6 Uo-Chikyu nut files from Japarts years ago. Made in Japan, great quality and works great. I also bought a Uo-Chikyu fret crowning file as well.

As far as do’s and don’ts (or is it dos and dont's?) a little goes a long way. If you're filing nut slots, or shaving nuts/saddles just do a little, put the strings on and check. Very easy to go too far and end up too low with fret buzz (I've done it before).

As far as tools, get a good, precise measuring tool.

[YamahaGuy]

I've been doing my own since 2011. I'll echo the above post about taking it slow. If you do mess up, though, replacement nuts and saddles are not that expensive. A fraction of the cost of you'll spend for the recommended tools. For saddle sanding, you'll want a variety of sandpaper ranging from like 400 to 80 grit. For nut files I use a $3 set of files from Harbor Freight. I have automotive feeler gauges for measuring.

If you're only going to set up one or two guitars, I can't see spending $80 on nut files. My buddy bought an $80 set and they didn't even work.

If you have many guitars you'll be setting up, I suggest getting several replacement nuts and saddles to practice on and be able to swap out.

I use a steel polishing cloth to polish frets.

I use 1000 grit steel wool to take off the high gloss finish off the back of my necks and make them more of a satin finish.

When gluing the nut back in, a little dab will do ya. Some people don't even glue them back in.

For instruments with under saddle pickups, take special note of the arc of the bottom of the saddle to ensure even sound output across all six strings. Some are flat as a pancake, while others have a radius to them.

[UncleJesse]

The new Music Nomad diamond nut files are a nice set to own. They come with holders too which is nice compared to the floppy ones. A set of feeler gauges, a string action gauge, and some 80 grit sandpaper with adhesive stuck to a $5 12"x12" tile from Lowe's and you've got most of what you need.

[Skip Ellis]

Yes, I do and don't understand why more people don't. It's just not that difficult and you don't NEED a lot of expensive tools. When I started back in the 70's, there was no such thing as nut files and all the other high dollar stuff that Stew Mac sells. We had the Martin repair manual and an old book by Don Teeter about acoustic guitar building and went from there. I cringe at the thought of folks actually paying someone to change their strings.

[EZYPIKINS]

Yes I do my own setups. As I couldn't find a tech who would follow my direction.

Took me awhile to get up the nerve was afraid I'd damage something. Pffh

Stew Mac has the tools you need. Though not cheap.

The nut slotting jig is a big time saver.

And I lower action at the saddle from the top, not the bottom.

I know I have always been Bassakwards.

I'll slot the saddle the same way I slot the nut, using files larger than the string.

That way I can set each string for the perfect height. Not just an average.

Then filing fore or aft for intonation. Remove excess material from the top of the saddle and polish with finer papers. Finish with fret erasers. good to go.

Main tool for my setups is Peterson Strobe. If you intonate with a wide range tuner. No telling what you may get in the end.

And continually check tuning.

For final nut slot depth. Check with a tuner.

Tune guitar open, Fret at first. If it's sharp. Go down a bit more with an abrasive cord. When the notes stay true, both open and fretted. You're good.

I check string height with feeler gauges. Not a ruler, or a dial indicator. I come from engine mechanics.

I am mainly a fingerstyle player. Although I have been known to attack extremely hard with a pick. I'm not a Flatpicker. A flatpicker would want a higher action.... Maybe.

My preference is, at 12th fret. .042", .044", .046", .048", .050", .052"

At 1st fret .010", .011", .012", .013", .014", .015"

with relief at .005" to .007" Will vary with the seasons.

I played Semi-Pro for 40 years. Averaged 100 gigs per year, for as long as I can remember.

So yes, My guitars play well.

[mrjop1975]

I admire you that do your own set-ups, but it was something I never got into. I can do restringing, but because of my time being at a premium with my job, I barely have time to even restring a mountain dulcimer. I have 2 local stores that I go to for set-ups and restrings, one more than the other. Since they know me and my preferences with string gauges and height etc. they do a great job. I did take a chance when I got my Guild via Sweetwater and had them do the set-up and it turned out really good. As I said, I admire those of you that can and do set-ups, but I do hope you understand why some people don't.

[Silly Moustache]

I have discussed this with my luthier friend and former tech.

I've asked him if he would teach me, and I'd be happy to buy he tools he seggests.

However something that I discovered this last weekend when string changing - my eyes are growing dim and my close focussing has diminished recently.

[TBman]

I do, but it isn't an exact science in my hands

[Dru Edwards]

This is a fantastic reference book:

[Ed66]

I've been doing my own setups for about 5 years. I realize not everyone wants to or has the temperament or time. I do quite a bit of woodwork on the side as well, so working with wood has always come easy for me as well as being enjoyable. As said in multiple ways above, the basic 5 or 6 tools can be acquired relatively cheaply (or you can go for high end specialized versions if you choose). For me, the key is just to go slow and adjust in the following order: truss rod, nut, saddle.

[Glennwillow]

I do some things. I have replaced many saddles on my guitars, sanded saddles down to adjust action at the 12th fret, and I have a set of nut files from StewMac and have adjusted nut slot heights. I have a good dial caliper and feeler gauges and an array of sandpaper. I have adjusted trussrods here and there, as needed.

I have not messed with fret filing, however, but that's probably next on the list of things I should learn to do. I have also learned to do drop-fill repairs.

I live way out in the boondocks (in the country), a minimum 75-minute drive from the technician that I have used for so many decades. Also, if I take him a guitar to work on, it'll be with him for 3 weeks and then I have to drive back to get it. So that's 5 hours of total driving to get a guitar worked on. Even he suggested 20 years ago that I should learn to do some of this stuff myself, so I did.

As has been noted, everything needs to be done carefully and in small increments to keep from messing things up.

- Glenn

[SRL]

Do you do your own setups?

Yes. Probably saved myself thousands over the years. Main recommendation is the first guitar you set up, make it a cheap guitar and have a backup nut and saddle because you'll probably screw something up.

Also recommend going slow, checking, taking more material off, rechecking, etc. That is the key to not overdoing it and having to start over with a fresh nut/saddle because you took too much material off.

If you're doing anything near the guitar itself, take time to layer some masking tape over the wood of the guitar. It is very easy to slip while filing something and gouge your headstock or what have you.

There are a lot of guides and videos online. I like this guide the best because it goes into more detail.

what tool kit would you recommend?

Basic tools to set up action

• Feeler gauge and action ruler. Handy to have both but if you have a good metal ruler already, you can get by with just the feeler gauge.
• Several sheets of sandpaper and a flat work surface (for sanding down saddles and nuts to shape them).
• Dust mask (you don't want to breathe plastic or bone dust if you can help it)

Optional but highly recommended tools

• String spacing ruler. If your nut doesn't come pre-spaced, you'll want this.
• Digital caliper. I probably use one of these more than any other tool.
• Hosco Japan 10pc nut slot files or any other quality set. Yes you can cut nuts with welding tip cleaners from amazon, sharpened feeler gauges, or by using old strings even. You could probably even cut them with dental floss if your time is worthless. But if you have to cut more than a few nuts in your life, a good set of files will save you a ton of time and frustration.

If you're going beyond the nut and saddle to adjust action, there's also fret polishing and leveling, which is a different set of tools/supplies but also very easy.

[martingitdave]

Sometimes. There was a time when it was hard to find a good tech with availability. Though, lately, I started using a shop that does a better job than I can do. They are busy, but usually have fit me in.

[mawmow]

Yes Sir !
Basic set up (truss rod) and crafting my own bony nuts and saddle.
Also made a "neck reset" on some fully bolted Taylors.
Changed some electronics too.

I had the chance to have an experienced luthier that would care
for my new used guitars and he would teach me how to care for them.

So, paying for his services then paid me much in return on the long run.

I would not work the frets and leave crowning and replacement to an experience luthier.
Same for making holes or any wood repair needing glue...