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#1
07-28-2004, 05:00 PM
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so i need a shim
hey all. i restrung my 710 this past weekend and my third(G) string is buzzing. i took it in to the local shop and my action is too low now. this has never been a problem, but after changing the strings this time around a buzz has developed. the tech guy told me i just needed a tiny shim to fix it. so, how simple is this? what exactly is he saying? any advise i'd love to hear. i'm horrible at tech issues w/ guitars.
Mark 
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#2
07-28-2004, 05:08 PM
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Mark:
The shim itself isn't a big deal, although it really isn't the proper way to achieve your aim. Ideally, you should make another saddle with enough height to clear the buzz without a shim. I wonder if this issue is Summer-humidity related... if so, you may find that the action will shift again during Winter heating season. If you think this may be the case, it may be worthwhile to get a new saddle and keep the old one. This way, you can swap saddles as needed to keep the action where you like it despite the effects of humidity on the guitar. Either way (shim or new saddle), it should be an easy fix. Also, big "Great Job!" to your tech for not just tweaking the truss rod in an attempt to get an "easy fix." While a truss rod tweak might do the trick, it really isn't the way to do it. Good to hear your tech understands this. 
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#3
07-28-2004, 05:38 PM
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hey there randall. the tech told me he has a "winter" and "summer" saddle for his taylor. that's what he reccommended. when it comes to tech issues, like i said, i'm an idiot. where do i go about buying a new saddle, how do i fit it appropriately, and how do i switch in and out?
Mark
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#4
07-28-2004, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
1. Is it safe to assume your 710 has a Tusq saddle and no pickup? The lack of pickup will make it much less of a hassle. Anyway, I've heard that Taylor now sells replacement saddles through their "Taylorware" website. Other options include bone, which your tech can probably make from scratch for around $25.00. Also Bob Colosi sells pre-shaped saddles through his website... http://www.guitarsaddles.com/ Bob's website has good info on the process of final fit and installation as well. The abridged version is that the old saddle should come out with a little force. Typically, a pair of pliers (wrapped in cloth to keep the teeth of the pliers from biting into the saddle) and a straight-up pull is all you should need. The only real trick is to pull directly straight up to avoid getting the saddle cocked sideways and also applying a bit of counterforce to the bridge. Be gentle and take time to "cool off" if you get frustrated. Once you get the new saddle to fit in the slot, string it up and see where your action is... at this point, you may find that you need to lower the saddle a bit. If this is the case, you can sand the bottomside of the saddle against a flat surface. I like to use 150 grit sandpaper for the rough sanding and 220 grit for the final touchup. The trick is to get the saddle completely flat on all edges (90 degree angles). Again, go slowly and test fit the saddle as needed to ensure that you don't sand too much. Remember, measure twice and cut once. I think that about sums it up. Good luck and don't hesitate to have the tech make the swap if it's not something you're comfortable with. PS: How's Adam? I haven't heard from him in a while. Last I heard he was in DC.
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#5
07-28-2004, 06:35 PM
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hey there randal. thanks for all the help. if i were to go ahead and order a bone saddle, should i just order the bone nut as well? i just figure i could kill 2 birds w/ one stone. i'm horrible at all this mechanical stuff so this will be done by somebody with experience. thanks for all you're help. i'll contact you when i have a little more time on what adam's up to. great guy!
Mark
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