Guitar Stringing 101 - angled bridge pins and other helpful tips

[Methos1979]

Photo for another post - ignore! (Cute new grandbaby!)

[Mike12]

Originally Posted by turtlejimmy

To be clear, I don't really know any of that for fact (that taking off all the strings can be hard on a setup) .... I'm not a tech, or guitar builder, I've just heard this a number of times and so I figure there's probably something to it. It fits in with my general laziness ...... So, I don't have to clean the fretboard so often.



Turtle

I always change one string at a time due to having a resonator and not wishing to distress or move the cone. There is also the question of an undersaddle pickup if fitted. Nice thread though, I have been tempted by the over under wrap but never had a problem with slippage before so back to normal for me. Many thanks Mike

[tbirdman]

I don't understand why you need a battery power winder. I have too many battery things in my house as it is. I find the manual one works fine and also doubles as a bridge pin puller and string cutter.

I find a bed with a soft comforter is a perfect place to change strings. I do need to get a headstock supporter.

Justin Guitar has a good video on change strings. https://www.justinguitar.com/guitar-...-guitar-gm-105

Changing classical strings is a bear compared to a steel string guitar.

[llew]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

Photo for another post - ignore! (Cute new grandbaby!)

That's some good sleep right there...cute kid!

[Glennwillow]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

Photos!

Newly angled bridge pins:

...

That's a really good idea about grinding an angle onto the bottom of the bridge pins. Very clever!

- Glenn

[Mike12]

[QUOTE=tbirdman;7167506] I do need to get a headstock supporter.

Had to laugh, I use a shoe for electrics and a walking boot for acoustics, you turn it 90 degrees to the guitar neck and put the neck over the part where your heel goes. Gives enough height for the string winder and stops the guitar rocking (is that a good thing?)
Mike

ps lovely baby and grand children are best because you can give them back at the end of the day

[Silly Moustache]

I've done a few vids about my string changing methods. Mostly because some mistakenly believe that slotted headstocks are more difficult.

So I have one on solid headstocks here.



After intensive and scientific research (???) I show in the description below, my preferred precut lengths per string is detailed.

n.b there is NO problem wiht precutting strings unless they are riound core strings.

On string "stretching" I bought a plastic gadget called a "string stretcha" which, once I realised how to use it, I've found it very useful, and obviates grabbing strings under your fingers/nails.

(no pics of our babies as they are in their fifties!)

[EZYPIKINS]

I will polish frets with 8000 grit fret eraser from Stew Mac.
Oil fretboard and bridge with boiled Lin Seed Oil.
I don't wrap strings more that 3/4/ way around the post. So don't need winder.
I use a foam bed. It's actually left over Auralex studio foam.
Don't use neck rest, don't like the added pressure.
Loosen all strings and cut at 12th fret.
I tie strings, Gibson style, and cut as short as possible.
This makes getting them off easy.
Slight bend at ball end.
Tune to pitch, and stretch, repeat as many times as necessary till string stops going flat.
Check and adjust truss rod.

[savannahmay]

awee cute baby . . .



Best technique I learned was with wound strings on normal pegs, wind one on top and there rest under, so the string extending gets pinched between the upper wind and lower winds. This prevents slippage.


For non wrapped strings, is the loop it through, then wrap the string around itself (like a helix), then wind so the helix gets stuck under the wraps, to prevent slippage.

If you let go too early, the helix undoes itself as not enough winds n pressure to hold it down, so in cases like that, I use a mini needle nose to hold the helix wrap if it gets slippery and hold the helix (as goes under, I use a finger to add pressure and move the pliers to regrip when it comes back up)



Same applies for classical / traditional slotted tuners. Except I tend to use one wrap on the inside of the string and the rest wrapping on the outside to pinch.

Also all guitars have an ideal length to cut the string and have enough for the wraps you want, so once you find your length, remember the length and cut off for each post. I tend to use post counting. Like on my Republic (3x3 ) the first post is 2 post lengths past the post . . .


Of course to avoid all that is to get locking tuners. String through, lock, and tighten to pitch, and clip / curl / wind / tie excess.

But sometimes wrapping does influence tension, and sound / feel. My bf on his locking tuners still has to have 3 or 4 winds on his locked tuner guitars for feel, even though locked doesn't need them (unlocked need to wind to some degree to prevent slippage).

[Sadie-f]

Martin and Taylor agree on one thing, that 2.5-3 full wraps are sufficient. I don't love how your E string is wound all the way to the bottom of the post, or the 8 full wraps on the e post, note, the top wrap on both b & e are loose. Reference the capstan equation for holding strength.

I prefer to pull up for stretching/seating the string, ymmv.

[marciero]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

...
As to the reason for more wraps on the high E and B strings, I think (and I'm just assuming here) that the main reason is that because the strings are so thin and smooth it's to ensure better purchase between strings and decrease any chance of slippage since it's the upwards pressure/tension of the strings pushing up from the bottom that keep that short string through the hole from slipping out, a possibility with the Taylor method of not doing any sort of over/under wrap. With the larger strings there is more grab from the rough surface and of course also much less room due to the diameter.

It is the lesser friction of the unwound strings against the post, but not so much about any upward pressure. The lesser stiffness also plays a role, as slippage requires flexing of the string at the around the corner of the string post slot. This works out nicely because more wraps on the thinner strings ensures a more constant string angle over the nut. Of course the winds should go downward. Agree that no unsightly and clunky looping of string is necessary.

[marciero]

One other thing, maybe mentioned elsewhere, is that any hand wraps around the post should be done before anchoring the ball end in the bridge. The reason is that each hand wrap introduces a torsional twist in the string. If you've ever hand coiled a garden hose, compression hose, etc, you know the effect. If you are very particular about coiling mic cables you are also tuned into this effect. This does not happen if you do all the wraps with the string winder.

[Methos1979]

Originally Posted by marciero

It is the lesser friction of the unwound strings against the post, but not so much about any upward pressure. The lesser stiffness also plays a role, as slippage requires flexing of the string at the around the corner of the string post slot. This works out nicely because more wraps on the thinner strings ensures a more constant string angle over the nut. Of course the winds should go downward. Agree that no unsightly and clunky looping of string is necessary.

This makes sense as well. I always assumed the winds forcing pressure on the string end that goes through the post hole but I can see where additional wraps would give you more grab to the post as well. Likely a combination of the two. Regardless, I think this method also provides the neatest and best looking winds!

[musicman1951]

Great post and beautiful baby.

I'll be adjusting the bottom of my pins on the next Martin string change. I do changes the same way, although you've got a few more wraps on the first and second string than I do. It's all good. They never slip. I've gone from winding them with my fingers to winding them with a manual winder to the battery powered winder (mine's rechargeable) and I would never go back. But I'm lazy - I don't even chop wood for heat.

I've watched the Martin and Taylor videos and none of these people who spend all day working on guitars suggest that taking all the strings off at once is bad for the instrument. That may be the difference between science and something that sounds right.

[TomB'sox]

A couple of things I do differently than the original post. Before putting the strings in the bridge, I bend them anywhere from about 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the ball. This helps the ball seat up tight against the bridge plate and tends to avoid the popping that you describe as that is caused by the ball ends pulling up on the pin as they find their way to the bridge plate when they come under tension. Giving the strings a little tug when you put in the pins helps prevent that also.

Secondly, I hate leaving the strings long when I wind them. Unless I am using wound strings, I measure to the next tuning post (roughly) and cut the strings. I hate the string flopping around while I wind, hitting me, maybe scratching the headstock etc.