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  #16  
Old 11-02-2021, 01:17 PM
not_elliotsmith not_elliotsmith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martyn Eden View Post
My fs820 needed a Truss rod tweak by me and has been a joy to play since. I wouldn't pay anyone to touch it. It is my sofa/garden guitar, and a keeper.
Out of curiosity why did you choose to get the FS820 rather than a FG820 model? The FG's seem to be small concert models compared to the FG dreadnoughts. Do you prefer their sound or something?
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2021, 01:28 PM
Martyn Eden Martyn Eden is offline
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I already had a dread and wanted a sofa guitar. Mine is black with cream binding and I am delighted with it. The action is great post truss rod tweak, and the neck is super smooth and fast. I think I'm right in saying the FG has an extra mil string spacing, but don't quote me on that.
I use light gauge D'Adarios and am very happy with it. My Eastman E1D solid Sapele dread is for heavier duty stuff, but they complement each other very well. I will keep the guitar forever.
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2021, 01:44 PM
Martyn Eden Martyn Eden is offline
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I would take a look at the Eastman PCH range while you're at it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4mCDCDJxiQ
The only problem with the PCH is that for 200 notes extra you can get the solid sapele back and sides E models which are well worth the upgrade.
The main difference is the nut width. Skinny Yamaha V standard Eastman.
Both are great guitars.
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2021, 02:01 PM
takamineGD93 takamineGD93 is offline
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I dont know that sigma model but every sigma i played have been great. Better than similar offerings and a tad more expensive. I have a very nice 000 12-fret sigma here and would have bought the j200 if i only could have tried it when I was looking for a jumbo.
The blue 820 yamaha I returned.

Sigma has 1 3/4 wide nut,. That alone would be be a dealbreaker for me. The sigma has real grover openback tuners (they are very nice on my sigma) and bone nut. And I love herringbone.

I think yamaha has plastic, even on there LL16.
Yamaha is nice. I had the 730 several years. But I would go for the sigma. I think singapore spa guitar (a youtuber) says the tuners aren't very good even on Ll16.
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  #20  
Old 11-02-2021, 02:08 PM
Martyn Eden Martyn Eden is offline
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The tuners on my FS820 are poor. But the guitar rarely goes out of tune.
Eastman tuners - at least on the E range - are very good.
I don't believe I've ever played a Sigma guitar so will not comment.
Alvarez usually punch above their weight at this price point?
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  #21  
Old 11-02-2021, 02:29 PM
Jim Comeaux Jim Comeaux is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by not_elliotsmith View Post
Can you explain what you mean by minimal offset? I'm not familiar with action adjustment.

Did the luthier inform you of what the heights were set to after he had set it up for you? Like he said "Okay I set the strings 4/64 ths on the bass side and 3/64 ths on the treble side?
Sure thing! I was referring to the truss rod adjustment, and I prefer or rather, I can get away with. This adjustment determines how high or low your action can be without fret buzz on the top frets (closest to the nut). I say “get away with” because the less relief that you have in the offset, the more height you will need on the nut slots. Low action at the top makes barre chords easier for my old fingers.
As far as the actual measurements go. What I gave you is all that I have actually measured. That measurement will vary from one guitar to another. I was just happy as a clam that the guitar played and still plays as easily as it does, so what difference will knowing the exact action height at the first fret make to me?
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  #22  
Old 11-02-2021, 06:18 PM
koolimy koolimy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by not_elliotsmith View Post
Can you specify what you mean by "maintenance" though? Are you talking about truss rod adjustment so that the action can be improved?
Sorry, I was just wondering if the shop just totally neglected the guitar and didn't take even basic care of the instrument, such as humidifying or as you said, turning the truss rod once in a while. The terrible FG800 my brother had was neglected horribly and had a huge belly so I have seen FG800s get really bad with neglect.
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  #23  
Old 11-02-2021, 07:00 PM
Synrel Synrel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by not_elliotsmith View Post
What's the difference between a FG800 and a FG820 though? I know that an FG800 back and sides and neck are made of nato but with a FG830 the back and sides are made with rosewood. Also the FG830 has scalloped bracing.
All of the FG800-850 line have scalloped bracing.

The differences in the series are in the style (body size, cutaway, electronics, etc.), the woods used, the color choices, the amount of cosmetic enhancements, the strings used, and the fingerboard material.

For the fingerboard, depending on the model, it is either rosewood, walnut, or either rosewood or walnut.

I've really enjoy my FG830. I've never played a sigma here in the USA, but I've heard one that sounded very nice on a youtube video. Either way, you should always have your guitar setup when/after you purchase it.

Good hunting..
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  #24  
Old 11-02-2021, 07:41 PM
Wellington Wellington is offline
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I haven't played that specific model of Sigma, but the other Sigmas I've played (current ones) have been really good, I'd definitely consider it personally, next I'd consider the Guild personally.
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2021, 06:31 AM
not_elliotsmith not_elliotsmith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martyn Eden View Post
I would take a look at the Eastman PCH range while you're at it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4mCDCDJxiQ
The only problem with the PCH is that for 200 notes extra you can get the solid sapele back and sides E models which are well worth the upgrade.
The main difference is the nut width. Skinny Yamaha V standard Eastman.
Both are great guitars.
I might be wrong but I don't think Eastman guitars are common here in Ireland or in Europe. I tried looking them up on Thomann and Gears4Music(UK Vendor) and I couldn't find them.
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  #26  
Old 11-03-2021, 06:32 AM
not_elliotsmith not_elliotsmith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takamineGD93 View Post
I dont know that sigma model but every sigma i played have been great. Better than similar offerings and a tad more expensive. I have a very nice 000 12-fret sigma here and would have bought the j200 if i only could have tried it when I was looking for a jumbo.
The blue 820 yamaha I returned.

Sigma has 1 3/4 wide nut,. That alone would be be a dealbreaker for me. The sigma has real grover openback tuners (they are very nice on my sigma) and bone nut. And I love herringbone.

I think yamaha has plastic, even on there LL16.
Yamaha is nice. I had the 730 several years. But I would go for the sigma. I think singapore spa guitar (a youtuber) says the tuners aren't very good even on Ll16.
Apologies if I'm a bit slow but when you say "Sigma has 1 3/4 wide nut" are you referring to the Sigma DT-28H guitar? Why is that nut width a bad thing for you? You like thinner necks?

Also what is Herringbone? When I type it into Google laminate flooring comes up in the results for some reason...
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  #27  
Old 11-03-2021, 06:47 AM
not_elliotsmith not_elliotsmith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Comeaux View Post
Sure thing! I was referring to the truss rod adjustment, and I prefer or rather, I can get away with. This adjustment determines how high or low your action can be without fret buzz on the top frets (closest to the nut). I say “get away with” because the less relief that you have in the offset, the more height you will need on the nut slots. Low action at the top makes barre chords easier for my old fingers.
As far as the actual measurements go. What I gave you is all that I have actually measured. That measurement will vary from one guitar to another. I was just happy as a clam that the guitar played and still plays as easily as it does, so what difference will knowing the exact action height at the first fret make to me?
Yeah I understood how you can change the action of a guitar by adjusting the truss rod and that you have to be careful otherwise you'll get fret buzz when playing on the lower part of the neck.

I just don't understand what you mean when you use the word "offset"? You say "the less relief you have in the offset the more height you need on the nut slots"...does that mean the tighter the truss rod screw is the more height you need on the nut in order to avoid fret buzz?
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  #28  
Old 11-03-2021, 06:50 AM
not_elliotsmith not_elliotsmith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wellington View Post
I haven't played that specific model of Sigma, but the other Sigmas I've played (current ones) have been really good, I'd definitely consider it personally, next I'd consider the Guild personally.
That's interesting that you say that because others have put the Yamaha at the top and the Guild second.

Do you not think the Yamaha's are that good? I'd be interested in hearing your reasoning.
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  #29  
Old 11-03-2021, 06:52 AM
not_elliotsmith not_elliotsmith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koolimy View Post
Sorry, I was just wondering if the shop just totally neglected the guitar and didn't take even basic care of the instrument, such as humidifying or as you said, turning the truss rod once in a while. The terrible FG800 my brother had was neglected horribly and had a huge belly so I have seen FG800s get really bad with neglect.
Ok.

What do you mean by "huge belly"? Is that another way of saying the action was high on your brothers FG800?
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  #30  
Old 11-03-2021, 08:15 AM
koolimy koolimy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by not_elliotsmith View Post
Ok.

What do you mean by "huge belly"? Is that another way of saying the action was high on your brothers FG800?
By huge belly, I meant that the area of the top around the bridge was lifting up a lot, creating an effect that looked like a beer belly. Because that area lifted up, naturally the action lifted up also.
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