#16
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Thanks again for all the advice, folks. Wade, I may one day go with the custom-saddle option you mention, so I appreciate you sharing that.
For now, I've gone with the Paige 12-string capo, which has the four rings that go over the regular capo bar and fret the narrower E, A, D and G octave strings. I read a fair amount on other threads here (and elsewhere online) about this capo and want to share a few things based on my experience so far, in the event it helps someone else down the line. First, the rings are not "impossible" to get on, as some have intimated. With a bit of time (took me maybe 10-15 minutes) and patience, all four went on fairly easily. The method I used was to use one finger/thumb from each hand and guide the ring onto the capo band and down into the appropriate position using the finger/thumb nail. Rotating the capo bar around, a little at a time, so your nail(s) can push down on all portions of the ring helps. By the time I got to the third and fourth ones they went on real easy. Then there's a bit of finer adjustment to make sure you're only getting the octave strings with them - this involves latching the capo, checking fretting and then moving any rings as necessary. That whole process took me about 20 minutes. Once it was done, the guitar sounded great capoed. Didn't have to clamp down too hard - with minimal pressure I got great intonation, without pulling the wider-diameter strings sharp. The product does just what it says it does. Overall, I'm satisfied (so far). My only complaint is that on my guitar the Paige 12-string capo barely fits behind the nut for storage. Being able to land the capo there when not in use is a big part of the Paige's appeal, as it's too clunky for quick, on-stage changes otherwise. I have to use a bit of force to push it over the nut, even with the adjustment screw completely open. Paige would do well to design this model with a bit more adjustment depth to address this problem. It seems like this is just their standard 6-string capo with the four rings, instead of a different size capo as well. That makes sense from a cost-management standpoint and I understand why they did it, but if enough others have a similar problem I think there'd be a market for a slightly deeper/wider capo and folks would be willing to absorb any additional cost for a better product. |
#17
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Ive had the same Shubb capo for...40 years? Its solid brass for a 6 string. I have a narrow neck 12 string and it works great on that guitar. Its got a thick rubber pad that picks up all the different string levels just fine. They still make it... The Original in their catalog. Ive tried Keysers and they buzz like mad...unusable.
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#18
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Quote:
The trick to getting them on if they didn't come that way is to soak the rings in warm soapy water. Otherwise there will be gnashing of teeth and wailing.
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A bunch of guitars I really enjoy. A head full of lyrics, A house full of people that “get” me. Alvarez 5013 Alvarez MD70CE Alvarez PD85S Alvarez AJ60SC Alvarez ABT610e Alvarez-Yairi GY1 Takamine P3DC Takamine GJ72CE-12-NAT Godin Multiac Steel. Journey Instruments OF660 Gibson G45 |
#19
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I found that when tuning a 12 string, if I tune the standard Base E string, the A string and the G string slightly flat, the strings are closer to being in tune when using a capo. The octave strings are tuned to pitch.
As much as I dislike Kyser capos for 6 string guitars, they work very well for me with my 12 strings. Be sure to use the 12 string Kyser and not a 6 string model The 12 string capo has more spring tension for use with a 12 string. |
#20
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Quote:
On my Rainsong, I need the extra tension of the Shubb due to the flat fretboard.
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Larrivee OM-03RE; O-01 Martin D-35; Guild F-212; Tacoma Roadking Breedlove American Series C20/SR Rainsong SFTA-FLE; WS3000; CH-PA Taylor GA3-12, Guild F-212 https://markhorning.bandcamp.com/music |