Loving Yamaha A series but............

[Gary in MO]

I'm really trying to want one of these as a keeper but not sure if I'm having bad luck.


Not that long ago I bought an AC5M - mint condition from a big box store. I won't blame the guitar on this but I had to send it back.
It played horribly and I know the first owner cranked around on the truss rod due to the marks on the G and D strings. They were probably
trying to adjust the high action with the rod instead of a proper setup. I didn't trust that outcome after spending that much money so
back it went.

After that experience, I was in a GC and there was an A1MVN which sounded and played wonderfully plus a FSX3 that also sounded and
played wonderfully. So when a new A3M popped up new on Reverb for a great price I bought it. It does sound and play wonderful except
the high e starts out towards the large bevels on the frets and then gradually gets further in as it goes up the neck. It's not parallel with
the fretboard. The result is it slips off if not played carefully on the first 3 frets. Pulloffs take on a bad tone as the string slides down the bevel.
The A1M does not have that problem or those large bevels on the fret ends. I would think the A3M would be a higher quality. I know the first
thought is to get a new nut to push the high e further in but I really do not want to lose string spacing.

Few questions:

Those with an A3M - does your guitar have or did have that problem also? If you did replace the nut, did you lose valuable string spacing at the
nut end of the guitar? Do all of these A3 /5 series have these large bevels squeezing the string spacing down?

Though I really want the SRT2 electronics plus a cut-away, will an FGX3 or 5 be a good replacement with the Atmosfeel. I really love the sound
of these spruce / mahogany A and F series Yamahas. Both series. They are so wonderful sounding and I've played a lot of guitars to compare lately.
For the money, they are hard to beat. I A/B my A3M with my Takamine Pro series and my family members picked the Yamaha as the best sounding. Unplugged.

I have not found an A3M (A5M) and FGX3 (FGX5) Youtube comparison. If each guitar was played with your eyes closed, is there that much
difference in sound? Thanks for any input.

[brancher]

Hi,

I have owned a Red label FGX5 as well as an AC3M dlx. I liked the 5 okay, but it wasn't 'all that' as I had hoped - especially compared with my D18. 12 frets (a good thing for that guitar), but is seed to have intonation issues for me. Compared to my Eastman E6D, I preferred the E6D.

In regards to the AC3m, I did not notice anything that would lead me to question the strings or string installation. Although I have replaced nuts in the past to provide that extra 1 mm (or so) spacing, I did not do that with this one. I thought the strings were very well installed - you may want to restring and pay attention to where the string crosses the saddle.

The SRT2 system is stellar - the top end is a little echoey as many mic-blends are (esp Baggs), so you have to manage that part, but overall, I was pleased as punch with the SRT2 on the 'ribbon mic' setting and with the compression engaged (the left button pushed in). I ended up selling the guitar because I just couldn't get on with its neck shape/width and E-to-E spacing at nut. Really was an effort to switch between my D18 or WY1 ts, over to the Yamaha. But strung up with silk n Steel strings (Matin MA130), it just sang with a voice that is pretty rare!

I even had folks with way more expensive guitars making excuses like 'well, you just make 'em all sound good', etc, (not true btw), in obvious denial as to howe good that guitar really was compared to say, an expensive Taylor. If the neck had been just a little more to my liking, I'd still have it. BTW, the buyer was very tickled to been able to get it! Paid cash after playing it for only 5 minutes or so. They really are that good.

A great guitar - I'd recommend ti to anyone who os a serious fingerstyle player and who likes its neck shape.

As usual, ymmv.

[Gary in MO]

Thanks for the comments. On my A3M, the string spacing from the edge of the fretboard increases as it goes up the neck towards the saddle. So the nut end has the string closer to the fret ends.

Installing a new nut to fix this would reduce string spacing at the nut even more.
As I mentioned, the A1M does not have those large bevels on the frets or those rolled edges on the fretboard. It’s easier to chord than the A3M though it doesn’t sound better.

Now I think I’ve read about the intonation issues a few too many times on those red labels. Might be more common than I would want to risk. Especially ordering on line. I may need to stop that.

[Gary in MO]

I just want to update because I don’t want this to be a knock against Yamaha.

After playing this guitar for 2 weeks within my return window, I’m keeping it. This guitar just sounds so wonderful and warm. Love the mahogany resonance. It’s such a unique sound compared to my other mahogany/ sitka spruce top guitars. Especially for the money though that isn’t the deciding factor at all.

I’ll get the nut sorted maybe with bone and move strings up a few mm’s. That will help tremendously.

Thanks for the input YamahaGuy 😀

[Nhguitarplayer]

I have an fs5 thay I changed the pins on and I am loving it even more now. Yamaha is still a very under appreciated brand it seems