#1
|
|||
|
|||
Madrose
Looking for some info on the dark area's on the back of this piece. Would such an area effect the tone?
Thanks Carlos |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Probably not significantly. Certainly not predictably.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Carlos, that piece certainly has character. What causes this? Is it a knot or a branch? I'm guessing no since I think it appears to be on the interior of the tree...
__________________
Guild: 2006 F-512 (Tacoma), 2007 GSR F-412 (Tacoma), 2010 F-212XL STD (New Hartford), 2013 Orpheum SHRW 12-string (New Hartford), 2013 GSR F-40 Taylor: 1984 655 (Lemon Grove) Martin: 1970 D-12-20 (Nazareth) Ibanez: 1980 AW-75 (Owari Asahi), 1982 M310 Maple series, 2012 AWS1000ECE Artwood Studio (MIC) Favilla: ~1960 C-5 classical (NYC) |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
No impact on tone. I think provided the back is flat and stable it will be ok.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
My car is white - will that affect how fast it goes?
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Assuming it's solid and not at all punky (hard to tell from photos) you'll be fine.
__________________
Paul Woolson |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Wondering if the darker areas are of a different density. (Stream, I know when I had my white sneakers and ate my spinach I was faster.)
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
The back is flat sawn and will not be as stable as a quartersawn back. In other words it will move more during humidity changes.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
it will move more during humidity changes
Tim, I'm new to this. If you don't mind and have the time, please explain? |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, that's what Tim was referring to. Flatsawn wood is less stable and for the most part less desirable. That's not to say it can't be used.
I assumed you knew about the flatsawn issue and were just asking about the dark areas.
__________________
Paul Woolson |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I was asking about the dark areas, but was unaware of the flatsawn aspect. Curious about humidity changes. I have a quilted maple guitar and understand that being quilted it to is flatsawn. Thanks to all so far for sharing your knowledge.
Carlos |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
No, white will be neutral. Red and yellow would make it go faster.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Here is a fun tool to play with to estimate the expansion and contraction of wood - http://www.woodworkerssource.com/movement.php
For example: Let's say that you have an Indian RW small jumbo that was built at 50% RH (Relative humidity). If you moved this guitar to a climate with 90% RH the 15" wide back would swell to 15-3/8"+. Over the winter your home dried out to about 30% RH and now the back shrank to 14-7/8" wide or a total movement of 1/2". Wood is flexible BUT it reaches a point where something has to give. Either a glue joint will fail or the wood cracks because it doesn't have enough elasticity to compensate for the seasonal changes. It quickly becomes apparent why it is important to maintain accurate humidity controls to minimize the risk of movement and eminent failure. Wood moves the greatest amount in the tangential direction or across the grain or across the back. If your guitar is standing up in the corner then we are talking about possible movement in the left to right direction of the back and top of the guitar. It moves the least amount in the radial [up and down] direction or in the direction of the grain. If more of the back is flat sawn this exposes more flat sawn grain fibers to the air which is more susceptible to tangential movement and faster moisture exchanges with the atmosphere. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Darn I knew my car was boring.
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
If more of the back is flat sawn this exposes more flat sawn grain fibers to the air which is more susceptible to tangential movement and faster moisture exchanges with the atmosphere.
Tim Thanks. I still cannot see with my rookie eyes a flatsawn or quatersawn piece of wood |