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  #31  
Old 10-11-2013, 09:08 AM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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As has been stated many times , the actual width of the nut itself is only one factor in the equation.

A: The E to e width is an even more important factor.

B: The way the fret ends have been shaped is also immensely important. The ideal is what I would call a "faux" semihemispherical end, which yields slightly more playable surface on the fret crown than the conventional bevel at 35 degrees. This allows for a slightly wider string spacing ...we are talking fractions here, admittedly, but the fractions add up.

C: Whether the strings are spaced with equidistant centers or equidistant spaces can also be a huge factor in the playability of the instrument. The vast majority of players will find that their fretting fingers prefer equidistant spaces ...a minority will find that they prefer equidistant centers....chacun a son gout ...
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  #32  
Old 10-11-2013, 09:20 AM
sjino sjino is offline
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Others have eluded to this, but I'll say it plainly: the difference in that 1/16 inch isn't necessarily just what the fretting hand feels. It's also what the picking hand feels.

For example, most of my guitars have a 1 3/4 nut width, but when I play my GS Mini with the narrower neck the strings seem closer together when I pick. There just doesn't seem to be as much space between the strings for my picking hand.

For me an even more noticeable difference is going up from 1 3/4 to 1 13/16. The only reason I don't own a 12-fret parlour guitar is because those guitars tend to have the wider, chunkier neck, I guess for the sake of preserving historical authenticity. Love the tone and the smaller body, but I could never get used to that neck.
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  #33  
Old 10-11-2013, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lennylux View Post
but it's not going to sound great at a party is it? "oh sorry, I can't play that guitar because it's 1/16th of an inch too shy for me at the nut, you wouldn't happen to have a 1 3/4 would you?"

Can't see why people would trap themselves in like this or make such a fuss over 1/16th of an inch... to me if you're that sensitive to something it's your technique that needs expanding, not your guitar collection. I can see someone used to playing a large neck being a bit curtailed on a 42mm neck or something, but we're talking a little over a millimetre here, the major difference between the two measurements would be how the string spacing at the nut was laid out by the manufacturer also...

Each to their own of course, but I'd rather be able to play any guitar in front of me than to tie myself down to hampering specs.
Seriously? Why do you even care? You say "to each their own," but everything else you say sounds almost as if you're offended that people would have a different set of preferences than you. If people prefer their personal guitars that they are spending their money on to have certain specs, that's their business and it is ridiculous to make judgments about that such as they are "trapping" themselves. No one here said they would refuse to play a guitar with a different nut width. They simply prefer their personal guitar to be a certain nut width (along with other precise measured specs).
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  #34  
Old 10-11-2013, 03:12 PM
Long Jon Long Jon is offline
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I am lucky enough to have a nice example of each.

Until very recently acquiring a Martin dread with a 1 3/4" width, I had only really played guitars with 1 11/16".

I have that guitar on a stand opposite me now, right next to the HD 28 V which I have owned for a while....
I have owned a few (all used) Martin dreads over the past few years in my search for "The One". All the previous ones were also the narrower size.

I have very long slim fingers and have taken a quite a liking to the extra bit of width. It doesn't seem much trouble swapping back and forth between them though. They are both modified V profile.

The surprising thing to me is how clearly I can actually SEE that extra 16th" from across the room. (and the extra width at bridge is very obvious).

The guitars are exactly the same size everywhere else.
Yet you can spot the fatty neck at a glance.

ps. Love 'em both
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  #35  
Old 10-11-2013, 03:42 PM
billybillly
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I'd never buy an acoustic with a 1 11/16 nut, ever. For some people, it matters.

Mind you, my hands are the size of toilet seats and have fingers as thick as bratwurst sausages.
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  #36  
Old 10-11-2013, 07:29 PM
semolinapilcher semolinapilcher is offline
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I have one of each. It makes a difference. I prefer the 1 11/16.
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  #37  
Old 10-11-2013, 07:32 PM
stepchildusmc stepchildusmc is offline
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i don't mind either. my '67 Gibson B25 has a 1 5/8 nut. that's a real pain to get comfortable with. can't do it. can't stand playing it.
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  #38  
Old 10-11-2013, 10:29 PM
Twinpeaksbirds Twinpeaksbirds is offline
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I can play either. But since I fingerpick a lot in the first position, I prefer 1-3/4". 1/16" is a massive difference to me, strange as that may sound.

Also, I gotta have 2-1/4" to 2-3/8" at the bridge.
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  #39  
Old 10-11-2013, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybillly View Post

Mind you, my hands are the size of toilet seats and have fingers as thick as bratwurst sausages.
That image will forever stay with me.
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  #40  
Old 10-12-2013, 02:24 AM
roddy roddy is offline
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Default Thanks everyone!

Thanks for all your replies everyone, most informative and... entertaining! I just checked the spec on my ROS-627 and it is actually 1 13/16, but having read your replies I did some measuring myself with just a ruler, so maybe not too exact. The actual E to E measurement seems to be 1 9/16 at the nut and 2 5/16 at the saddle. I compared those measurements with my old Yamaha FG 180 (which I always thought had wider than normal spacing), and it measured 1 6/16 at the nut and only 2" at the saddle, E to E. Quite a difference, especially at the saddle end. I love the wide spacing on the RK. I don't have particularly fat fingers or large hands but the wider spacing helps stop me touching the adjacent string when I'm fretting chords. Thinking about it, and reading all your kind replies, I now do think string spacing would be a deal breaker if I ever buy another guitar and I doubt if I would consider less than 1 13/16.

Oh and, yes, Long John, I can see the difference clearly from right across the room!
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  #41  
Old 10-14-2013, 08:17 PM
JimStone JimStone is offline
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Default uneducated opinion

I am new to guitar and have had 6 lower priced ones. I go by what I was taught. After the first guitar. When you pick one up and play it for just a minute
you can tell if if feels right, fits so to speak. All guitars I have had the same nut width except the classical. Only one really fits, feels good and is easy for me. And after reading this thread and using a ruler, it has 1/32" more string spacing on the first fret. My humble opinion is, if it feels right, regardless of specs that is a good thing. Even as a novice, I can tell if it fits and that cannot be done without actually trying it. Then you can go to the other aspects, tone, build quality, looks etc.
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  #42  
Old 10-14-2013, 09:23 PM
momanbilly momanbilly is offline
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I have 2 guitars with the 1 3/4" nut width and 1 with the 1 11/16".
I think that for fingerstyle playing, most do prefer the wider nut width.
I only strum and flat pick and I have a mild preference for the smaller nut width and I can definitely feel the difference. I think what I actually like is that the neck itself is smaller, the feel is more comfortable, but once in a while it gets clumsy or crowded with the smaller nut width. Some say it is a matter of preference, but I submit that it's more like a lot of comparisons, there are good and bad aspects of each. However, someone may prefer something because they have become so accustomed to it, used to it, then, anything different, seems inferior or undesirable.
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  #43  
Old 11-24-2013, 06:17 AM
Jay Menon Jay Menon is offline
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My 2c worth...

For many years I agonised about nut width, fingerboard radius and back contours. I particularly liked the Ibanez wizard profile (which is weird, considering I have really huge hands).

Recently however, speaking to my guitar tech, I realised that guitars are all different. And it's precisely those differences make one play different guitars differently - in a way actually increasing one's own versatility as a guitarist.

So IMO I don't think, even for the individual player, there is any inherent superiority of one neck dimension over another (within physiological limits).

If you agonise about it too much, you will limit yourself. If you embrace the differences between guitars, and play them accordingly, you'll enjoy yourself more, have less risk of RSI (from playing in different ways) and also explore new horizons in your own playing...

Jay
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  #44  
Old 11-24-2013, 06:44 AM
Phelonious Ponk Phelonious Ponk is offline
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That 1/16th of an inch doesn't mean much to me, and I move between pretty radically different neck profiles (and scale lengths) without being disturbed by it, but it seems to be very important to some people. Different strokes. My advice, if you can follow it, is don't spend any time thinking about it, learn to very rapidly adapt to different guitars and enjoy them for their strengths. It's a lot easier and more fun than requiring very specific measurements to be comfortable.

P
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  #45  
Old 11-24-2013, 06:58 AM
Silly Moustache Silly Moustache is offline
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There are differing nut widths for different purposes, just like there are different scale lengths, string spacings, body woods and body widths etc., all designed for different purposes.

It seems that few now seem to know about these, and many might find it very helpful to better understand how the (mainly) American guitar developed.

Flat-top guitars were made with standard 1&13/16" or 1 & 7/8" width for finger-style - because guitars were not much played any other way until the twenties/thirties.

Skinny necks with 1 & 11/16" and even 1 & 5/8" nuts were made for the rhythm guitar guys - in dance bands - closed chords, choking at least one, maybe three strings.

They were common on archtops (obviously) and also other guitars originally intended for the rhythm guitarist - like the OM and dreadnought.

Then the "country" style of playing with a pick started big-time but guitars were (are) still being made with skinny necks, and most just assume that they are "normal", and even become scared of trying wider necks.

If you have skinny enough finger-tips to be able to play intricate single string pieces on a skinny Rhythm guitar type neck (1 & 11/16" to 1 & 3/4" - then good luck to you, but as I was long ago advised by a real expert, the more intricate the work your fretting hand is doing the more likely it is that you will need a wider neck.

Yes, of course neck profile and fretboard/string spacing are also relevant, and yes of course someone will find an example of someone who can do complex flat-picking on a skinny neck.

Note: I believe that it is NOT about having big hands or long fingers - it is more about the thickness of your fingertips.

For me - 1 & 13/16" and 2 & 3/8" string spacing with a modified V profile. It is up to every musician to find the instruments that suits them surely?

Regards - Fat-tips!
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