#31
|
|||
|
|||
As has been stated many times , the actual width of the nut itself is only one factor in the equation.
A: The E to e width is an even more important factor. B: The way the fret ends have been shaped is also immensely important. The ideal is what I would call a "faux" semihemispherical end, which yields slightly more playable surface on the fret crown than the conventional bevel at 35 degrees. This allows for a slightly wider string spacing ...we are talking fractions here, admittedly, but the fractions add up. C: Whether the strings are spaced with equidistant centers or equidistant spaces can also be a huge factor in the playability of the instrument. The vast majority of players will find that their fretting fingers prefer equidistant spaces ...a minority will find that they prefer equidistant centers....chacun a son gout ... |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
Others have eluded to this, but I'll say it plainly: the difference in that 1/16 inch isn't necessarily just what the fretting hand feels. It's also what the picking hand feels.
For example, most of my guitars have a 1 3/4 nut width, but when I play my GS Mini with the narrower neck the strings seem closer together when I pick. There just doesn't seem to be as much space between the strings for my picking hand. For me an even more noticeable difference is going up from 1 3/4 to 1 13/16. The only reason I don't own a 12-fret parlour guitar is because those guitars tend to have the wider, chunkier neck, I guess for the sake of preserving historical authenticity. Love the tone and the smaller body, but I could never get used to that neck. |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#34
|
|||
|
|||
I am lucky enough to have a nice example of each.
Until very recently acquiring a Martin dread with a 1 3/4" width, I had only really played guitars with 1 11/16". I have that guitar on a stand opposite me now, right next to the HD 28 V which I have owned for a while.... I have owned a few (all used) Martin dreads over the past few years in my search for "The One". All the previous ones were also the narrower size. I have very long slim fingers and have taken a quite a liking to the extra bit of width. It doesn't seem much trouble swapping back and forth between them though. They are both modified V profile. The surprising thing to me is how clearly I can actually SEE that extra 16th" from across the room. (and the extra width at bridge is very obvious). The guitars are exactly the same size everywhere else. Yet you can spot the fatty neck at a glance. ps. Love 'em both |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
I'd never buy an acoustic with a 1 11/16 nut, ever. For some people, it matters.
Mind you, my hands are the size of toilet seats and have fingers as thick as bratwurst sausages. |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
I have one of each. It makes a difference. I prefer the 1 11/16.
__________________
Respectfully, Mike Taylor 415 --- Epiphone Texan --- Collings D1A --- Martin 5-15 --- etc Take a sad song and make it better. |
#37
|
|||
|
|||
i don't mind either. my '67 Gibson B25 has a 1 5/8 nut. that's a real pain to get comfortable with. can't do it. can't stand playing it.
__________________
Steppy Last edited by kscobie8; 10-12-2013 at 09:17 AM. Reason: vocabulary |
#38
|
|||
|
|||
I can play either. But since I fingerpick a lot in the first position, I prefer 1-3/4". 1/16" is a massive difference to me, strange as that may sound.
Also, I gotta have 2-1/4" to 2-3/8" at the bridge. |
#39
|
||||
|
||||
That image will forever stay with me.
__________________
There are still so many beautiful things to be said in C major... Sergei Prokofiev |
#40
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks everyone!
Thanks for all your replies everyone, most informative and... entertaining! I just checked the spec on my ROS-627 and it is actually 1 13/16, but having read your replies I did some measuring myself with just a ruler, so maybe not too exact. The actual E to E measurement seems to be 1 9/16 at the nut and 2 5/16 at the saddle. I compared those measurements with my old Yamaha FG 180 (which I always thought had wider than normal spacing), and it measured 1 6/16 at the nut and only 2" at the saddle, E to E. Quite a difference, especially at the saddle end. I love the wide spacing on the RK. I don't have particularly fat fingers or large hands but the wider spacing helps stop me touching the adjacent string when I'm fretting chords. Thinking about it, and reading all your kind replies, I now do think string spacing would be a deal breaker if I ever buy another guitar and I doubt if I would consider less than 1 13/16.
Oh and, yes, Long John, I can see the difference clearly from right across the room!
__________________
If you have an opinion, why be humble about it - Joan Baez. Recording King ROS-627 Yamaha FG-180 Dean Tradition Exotic |
#41
|
|||
|
|||
uneducated opinion
I am new to guitar and have had 6 lower priced ones. I go by what I was taught. After the first guitar. When you pick one up and play it for just a minute
you can tell if if feels right, fits so to speak. All guitars I have had the same nut width except the classical. Only one really fits, feels good and is easy for me. And after reading this thread and using a ruler, it has 1/32" more string spacing on the first fret. My humble opinion is, if it feels right, regardless of specs that is a good thing. Even as a novice, I can tell if it fits and that cannot be done without actually trying it. Then you can go to the other aspects, tone, build quality, looks etc. |
#42
|
|||
|
|||
I have 2 guitars with the 1 3/4" nut width and 1 with the 1 11/16".
I think that for fingerstyle playing, most do prefer the wider nut width. I only strum and flat pick and I have a mild preference for the smaller nut width and I can definitely feel the difference. I think what I actually like is that the neck itself is smaller, the feel is more comfortable, but once in a while it gets clumsy or crowded with the smaller nut width. Some say it is a matter of preference, but I submit that it's more like a lot of comparisons, there are good and bad aspects of each. However, someone may prefer something because they have become so accustomed to it, used to it, then, anything different, seems inferior or undesirable.
__________________
Billy - Praise Singing Guild DV62 Eastman AC822 GA, AJ615CE Mini Jumbo Archback Burst, AJ816CE Jumbo Archback, AC420 Blueridge BR-01 Bedell TB-24-G Cedar Fishman Loudbox Artist Acoustic Amp Focusrite Scarlett Interface Helicon Harmonizer |
#43
|
|||
|
|||
My 2c worth...
For many years I agonised about nut width, fingerboard radius and back contours. I particularly liked the Ibanez wizard profile (which is weird, considering I have really huge hands). Recently however, speaking to my guitar tech, I realised that guitars are all different. And it's precisely those differences make one play different guitars differently - in a way actually increasing one's own versatility as a guitarist. So IMO I don't think, even for the individual player, there is any inherent superiority of one neck dimension over another (within physiological limits). If you agonise about it too much, you will limit yourself. If you embrace the differences between guitars, and play them accordingly, you'll enjoy yourself more, have less risk of RSI (from playing in different ways) and also explore new horizons in your own playing... Jay |
#44
|
|||
|
|||
That 1/16th of an inch doesn't mean much to me, and I move between pretty radically different neck profiles (and scale lengths) without being disturbed by it, but it seems to be very important to some people. Different strokes. My advice, if you can follow it, is don't spend any time thinking about it, learn to very rapidly adapt to different guitars and enjoy them for their strengths. It's a lot easier and more fun than requiring very specific measurements to be comfortable.
P |
#45
|
|||
|
|||
There are differing nut widths for different purposes, just like there are different scale lengths, string spacings, body woods and body widths etc., all designed for different purposes.
It seems that few now seem to know about these, and many might find it very helpful to better understand how the (mainly) American guitar developed. Flat-top guitars were made with standard 1&13/16" or 1 & 7/8" width for finger-style - because guitars were not much played any other way until the twenties/thirties. Skinny necks with 1 & 11/16" and even 1 & 5/8" nuts were made for the rhythm guitar guys - in dance bands - closed chords, choking at least one, maybe three strings. They were common on archtops (obviously) and also other guitars originally intended for the rhythm guitarist - like the OM and dreadnought. Then the "country" style of playing with a pick started big-time but guitars were (are) still being made with skinny necks, and most just assume that they are "normal", and even become scared of trying wider necks. If you have skinny enough finger-tips to be able to play intricate single string pieces on a skinny Rhythm guitar type neck (1 & 11/16" to 1 & 3/4" - then good luck to you, but as I was long ago advised by a real expert, the more intricate the work your fretting hand is doing the more likely it is that you will need a wider neck. Yes, of course neck profile and fretboard/string spacing are also relevant, and yes of course someone will find an example of someone who can do complex flat-picking on a skinny neck. Note: I believe that it is NOT about having big hands or long fingers - it is more about the thickness of your fingertips. For me - 1 & 13/16" and 2 & 3/8" string spacing with a modified V profile. It is up to every musician to find the instruments that suits them surely? Regards - Fat-tips! |
|
Tags |
nut width, recording king, ros-627, string spacing |
|