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  #16  
Old 09-16-2017, 12:03 PM
chitz chitz is offline
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Obviously you get one more when you get the 18.

Two more when you get the 19 etc...
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2017, 12:12 PM
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StephenHD35 StephenHD35 is offline
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I own a 000-17 Black Smoke. I do think, the old time blues sort of visual aesthetic notwithstanding, that the 000-17 is more versatile than the Waterloos I've played, (I've only played the first model Collins introduced- both the ladder and X braced versions). I think it's a nice little guitar, and I appreciate the playability and sound, particularly at that price point. That being said, if it were a choice between the 000-17 and a post 2014 000-18, it would not even be close. The 000-18 is, in my opinion, as nice a guitar as you will find at that price point. While I don't like the dinky necks on either of these models as much as some folks might, I do still enjoy playing them.
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  #18  
Old 09-16-2017, 01:18 PM
IndianaStrummer IndianaStrummer is offline
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The woods are pretty identical, except the fretboard and bridge. The bracing is the same except the 18 has 1/4" and the 17 5/16".
Both hog body and Sitka tops. I went with the 17 because I actually prefer the satin finish over the gloss. I don't regret it one bit and the only reason I'd get an 18 is if I had a custom build done, otherwise it doesn't do anything my 17 won't do.
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  #19  
Old 09-16-2017, 02:46 PM
slytry slytry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndianaStrummer View Post
The woods are pretty identical, except the fretboard and bridge. The bracing is the same except the 18 has 1/4" and the 17 5/16".
Both hog body and Sitka tops. I went with the 17 because I actually prefer the satin finish over the gloss. I don't regret it one bit and the only reason I'd get an 18 is if I had a custom build done, otherwise it doesn't do anything my 17 won't do.
Thank you for helping
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  #20  
Old 09-16-2017, 02:46 PM
tippy5 tippy5 is offline
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My vote is for the iconic short scale Martin tone. Maybe I am biased because I own a fine 000-18 picked out from several at the PA Martin factory.

My initial plans were to sell it because I have 3 short scale Gibson's, two with sitka / Mh. I thought this 3 lb guitar tonewise would be overlap, or redundant. Wrong. Very flexible genre applications and it plays da' blues fine too with a little right hand muting and control.

It has almost the same amount of harmonic reverb that my Goodall's have, nice light, lush overtone artifacts. Very good for ballads and fingerstyle if you can do the 2 3/16" saddle span.
The low mids are very satisfying for general strumming. It also takes various string sets really well.
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  #21  
Old 09-16-2017, 02:56 PM
AgentKooper AgentKooper is offline
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If the price difference isn't the main issue, I'd go for the 000-18. I've played both and preferred the sound and construction (finish, back binding, ebony fingerboard and bridge) of the 18 series.
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  #22  
Old 09-16-2017, 03:03 PM
lowrider lowrider is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndianaStrummer View Post
The woods are pretty identical, except the fretboard and bridge. The bracing is the same except the 18 has 1/4" and the 17 5/16".
Both hog body and Sitka tops. I went with the 17 because I actually prefer the satin finish over the gloss. I don't regret it one bit and the only reason I'd get an 18 is if I had a custom build done, otherwise it doesn't do anything my 17 won't do.
Did you play both guitars? To me they sound as different as night and day.
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  #23  
Old 09-16-2017, 03:20 PM
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Get the 000-18, and then get yourself an old Harmony H165 to cover the all-hog bases. You'll be into the H165 about US $375 by the time it's all set up to play. Not pretty, but very practical

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  #24  
Old 09-16-2017, 03:34 PM
Cuki79 Cuki79 is offline
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I don't know if it has been mentioned but 000-17 has a simple dovetail neck joint. Which means it is a bolt-on neck. 000-18 has a traditional glued dovetail neck joint as any standard Martin. You get the same difference between let s say a d-16gt and d-18.

For me it is also very important in the tone difference. 000-18 is one of the best Martin you can get for the money.

If you can afford it, it is really a good guitar.

Cuki
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  #25  
Old 09-16-2017, 05:34 PM
fongie fongie is offline
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I have a 000-17SM and a 2014 000-18, both nice in their own way. But for me, pay the extra and go for the 000-18, you won't regret it. Good luck!!
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  #26  
Old 09-16-2017, 06:56 PM
dcmey dcmey is offline
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If you can play them both and buy the one that speaks to you. Hear is a video of Spoon Philips playing a 00017sm, 00017, and a 00018. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo9ShnTrSfY I hope that helps you.
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  #27  
Old 09-16-2017, 09:34 PM
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Jim Owen Jim Owen is offline
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Hello Slytry,
000 18. It costs a bit more--but consider that over the course of your lifetime, that price difference becomes minimal.

I have owned 3; I still have 2. I'd try a post 2014 model if I lost either of the ones I have.

I am quite biased. I bought one in 1973 and it was my main guitar for 30 years.
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  #28  
Old 09-16-2017, 10:15 PM
Guest 1928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndianaStrummer View Post
The woods are pretty identical, except the fretboard and bridge. The bracing is the same except the 18 has 1/4" and the 17 5/16".
Both hog body and Sitka tops. I went with the 17 because I actually prefer the satin finish over the gloss. I don't regret it one bit and the only reason I'd get an 18 is if I had a custom build done, otherwise it doesn't do anything my 17 won't do.
The 2014+ 000-18 has bracing more forward than normal, but I believe the new 000-17 (14 fret) is rear braced, as is typical of 14 fret 000's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuki79 View Post
I don't know if it has been mentioned but 000-17 has a simple dovetail neck joint. Which means it is a bolt-on neck. 000-18 has a traditional glued dovetail neck joint as any standard Martin. You get the same difference between let s say a d-16gt and d-18.
The Simple Dovetail does not use a bolt like the M/T neck did. It is a straight dovetail designed to be fitted entirely by CNC, where the traditional dovetail is called a tapered or compound dovetail, and is hand-fitted. However, the new 17 Series guitars are the first to pair the Simple Dovetail with traditional bracing.

Last edited by Guest 1928; 09-18-2017 at 08:50 AM.
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  #29  
Old 09-17-2017, 03:23 AM
IndianaStrummer IndianaStrummer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Yates View Post
The 2014+ 000-18 is forward braced, but I believe the new 000-17 (14 fret) is rear braced, as is typical of 14 fret 000's.



The Simple Dovetail does not use a bolt like the M/T neck did. It is a straight dovetail designed to be fitted entirely by CNC, where the traditional dovetail is called a tapered or compound dovetail, and is hand-fitted. However, the new 17 Series guitars are the first to pair the Simple Dovetail with traditional bracing.


Ah, I was unaware they forward shifted the bracing on the 18...the website specs don't mention that.
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  #30  
Old 09-17-2017, 04:49 AM
Cuki79 Cuki79 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Yates View Post
The 2014+ 000-18 is forward braced, but I believe the new 000-17 (14 fret) is rear braced, as is typical of 14 fret 000's.

The Simple Dovetail does not use a bolt like the M/T neck did. It is a straight dovetail designed to be fitted entirely by CNC, where the traditional dovetail is called a tapered or compound dovetail, and is hand-fitted. However, the new 17 Series guitars are the first to pair the Simple Dovetail with traditional bracing.
Thanks I have to update my Martin knowledge. I thought they would still use a bolt to tighten it...

Todd, you once posted this post:
http://acousticguitarforum.com/forum...8&postcount=16

It seems there is everything to screw the neck. Why putting the hardware and the hole if there is no screw or bolt?

Note that the traditional neck joint also have hardware and hole.
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Eastman E6OM (2019) Trance Audio Amulet
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Gibson Les Paul Standard 1958 Reissue (2013)
Fender Stratocaster American Vintage 1954 (2014)
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Last edited by Cuki79; 09-17-2017 at 05:36 AM.
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