#16
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#17
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NGD - Martin Dreadnought Jr - Review
Another happy customer. I too am petite and grew up playing a full size Yamaha dread. For years I sought out dreads as a way to recapture my youth but they increasingly became less comfortable to play. I have let go my last full size guitar and am thrilled to have this 15/16 scale Martin dread as a main guitar. Finally a guitar sized for the rest of us folks who are not 6' tall or more.
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#18
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Thanks for your honest opinion about the instrument though, it is very helpful! |
#19
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I'll try to post some sound clips later tonight for acoustic and plugged in with strumming and finger style. I got a new Apogee One that I want to try out.
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Martin 00-18V (sitka/hog) Taylor GCce 12-fret LTD (all koa) Gibson Keb Mo (adi/hog) Cervantes Crossover I (cedar/pe) Breedlove Oregon Parlor LTD (all myrtle) Journey OF-660 (carbon fiber) Radial ToneBone PZ-Pre TC Helicon Play Acoustic Singular Sound Beat Buddy HK Audio Lucas Nano 608i Bose S1 Pro |
#20
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Martin 00-18V (sitka/hog) Taylor GCce 12-fret LTD (all koa) Gibson Keb Mo (adi/hog) Cervantes Crossover I (cedar/pe) Breedlove Oregon Parlor LTD (all myrtle) Journey OF-660 (carbon fiber) Radial ToneBone PZ-Pre TC Helicon Play Acoustic Singular Sound Beat Buddy HK Audio Lucas Nano 608i Bose S1 Pro Last edited by dragonfly66; 04-29-2015 at 01:25 PM. |
#21
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This may be the stupid question of the day but what is tone rite?
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#22
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Martin 000-28EC '71 Harmony Buck Owens American Epiphone Inspired by Gibson J-45 Gold Tone PBR-D Paul Beard Signature Model resonator "Lean your body forward slightly to support the guitar against your chest, for the poetry of the music should resound in your heart." -Andrés Segovia |
#23
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Not stupid at all!
It is a device that vibrates the guitar, simulating vibrations that might occur while playing. You can find out more here, http://www.tonerite.com. I have used it on all of my guitars with great, good and mediocre results depending on the guitar. I didn't like my Breedlove Northwest Classic much until I used the Tone Rite on it. It opened up so nicely it sounded like a different guitar. Now it is one of my favorites. I used it on my 512ce 12-fret and didn't hear much difference at all. Probably because it was perfect already (it is my #1). I must warn you though, people have very strong opinions about this device on whether it works or not. I say if you hear a difference (perceived or real) then it works, if you don't it doesn't work.
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Martin 00-18V (sitka/hog) Taylor GCce 12-fret LTD (all koa) Gibson Keb Mo (adi/hog) Cervantes Crossover I (cedar/pe) Breedlove Oregon Parlor LTD (all myrtle) Journey OF-660 (carbon fiber) Radial ToneBone PZ-Pre TC Helicon Play Acoustic Singular Sound Beat Buddy HK Audio Lucas Nano 608i Bose S1 Pro Last edited by dragonfly66; 04-30-2015 at 12:04 AM. |
#24
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Thanks, dragonfly.
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#25
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Very informative review. Thanks.
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Bob DeVellis |
#26
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Blessings, Kip... My site: Personal Blog Yamaha LL16R-12 L Series A.R.E. Yamaha FG-75 Fender CF 60 CE Ibanez AF75TDG Epiphone Les Paul Std PlusPRO Eastman MB515 Mando Yamaha YPT230 Keyboard |
#27
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Just returned from a trip to GC where I got my first look at the D Jr. Very impressed with tone and feel.
I was surprised the scale length did not feel unduly short, unlike the GS Mini, which does. I agree the comparison between these two is a bit of a stretch because they are really apples and oranges. A better Taylor equivalent might be the 110CE, which is D size, full scale and the same price. It is laminated, but I don't worry about that. I've heard some really good laminated guitars (the ES-335 comes to mind...). Anyway, the D Jr. seems impressive and well worth the investment. |
#28
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Yes. This is my understanding.
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#29
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I sorta understand the poster's point, in that bridges and fingerboards have, traditionally, been made of wood, but I don't think there's anything wrong with your description or your use of the phrase -- seems to me that the top, back, and sides are the more common places to draw the line between all solid and all or partly laminated guitars. For that matter, although I'll confess to some personal bias in favor of ebony for a fingerboard, I don't see how my fingers can tell the difference if it's a (well made) richlite board while I'm playing. |
#30
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Engage in a brief exercise with me. If a maker released a guitar with a solid mahogany back and sides and a solid spruce top, but they used plastic for all the bracing, the fingerboard, the bridge plate, and the bridge, would you call it an "ALL solid wood" guitar? I hope not. Lastly, the OP presented a review (a mixed review at that) and part of his description was to make the claim that this is an "ALL solid wood" guitar. Thanking him for his review while suggesting that this description is inaccurate is not raining on anyone's parade. And your foray into talking about wooden strings isn't helpful either. I think you know what I'm talking about. In this era, when manufacturers can, and will, save a buck by making most wooden parts out of a lesser material, a guitar should only be called "all solid wood" when every part that is traditionally made of wood is actually made of solid wood. Last edited by jljohn; 04-29-2015 at 09:03 PM. |