Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph124C41
I thought you folks said 12 mm is a little bit too large and the 1 15/16-inch is a closer fit. Of course if it is too large I could just use a little tape wrap around or if it is too small I could just enlargen it a bit with some sandpaper wrapped around a small pole. Right?
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Hi Ralph.
You are indeed correct. It's a hole to put a jack in, not precision woodworking. (with the correction to 15/32"...)
In reality, all of the suggestions are "correct" and there are tiny fine points to each method, so you get to chose which one sounds correct for you. As my post points out, even the folks who originally were responsible for the Strapjack design or the folks who market the expensive custom tools to create the hole aren't in agreement on what "correct size" means.
Each person who does this ends up with their own reasons why they prefer one method over another. One of the reasons I prefer the Forstner bit is the teeth drill downward, and that helps to create a clean hole through the applied finish. I've seen a number of jack installations that had the finish blistered up around the hole. That happens when a method is used that is too aggressive in creating the hole or where the process creates pressure against the side of the existing hole, flaking up the finish in the process.
The argument can also be made that a jack hole that doesn't have a small amount of play won't let the jack seat squarely against the washers and nuts because very few people with a drill in their hand are going to be able to drill a hole that's perfectly perpendicular to the instrument surface. The Forstner bit even helps out in that respect because you can see the toothed edge as it just contacts the tape. It's instantly apparent if the hole isn't 90 degrees and tells you which way to correct the angle.
Use what you're comfortable with and have fun with your new-found skill!
