The ol' Martin Binding issue
 

Looks like I've been bit by the notorious Martin binding separation issue (2012 000-28EC). I'm planning to follow the general guidance offered by Bryan Kimsey on the repair. Just a simple CA-Med glue, toothpick, tape, and hair dryer to soften the binding material a bit...

Seems like a pretty straightforward fix, and something anyone can do if you're patient... and willing. Wish me luck! And throw out any tips or gotchas if you are so inclined.

I'm planning to do a few photos along the way just to show that it is really a pretty simple fix.

It was no more than about 15 minutes from start to finish. Man, I hope it turns out well...

So do I. Good luck! :up:

Not horrible, but could be better. I'm thinking I need to retouch the left side. I can still press it in a bit so I don't think I got enough pressure on it. I'll take care of it.

Then both sides need a little scraping and buffing. There are a couple of small glue bump that I need to scrape down.

I had the same separation on the left side of my d28 some months ago and I fixed it then with CA glue ... but it separated again as I can see today.
I´m storing my D28 most of the time in its bluish case. The guitar seems to be from around 1970.
I´m going to fix the binding with CA glue again and hope it will be ok for the coming decades...;)
Or should I use another glue?
https://viento.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-...49127648-3.jpg

https://viento.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-...49127643-3.jpg

I've gotten some feedback from others with the same issue... the binding was fixed, and then started to separate again. Mine might do the same... I will have to wait and see.

I do know that the recommendation I followed was to use CA 20 (or medium viscosity). The thin super glue seems to be too thin to get in all the crevices. The medium is better at filling in the wood fibers and creates a better bond.

If mine starts to pop off again, I may decide to just replace it entirely with a maple binding. Should I decide to just try regluing again, I think I will pull it back enough to be able to completely scrape, clean, and score the underside of the binding all along the curved portion that is under the most tension. Then reattach it with the hopes that removes enough tension to get a solid binding where it curves the most. That seems to be the problem area. If I can get a solid bond in that curved area, I'd be less concerned about it on either side, if that makes sense.

Thanks for your answer! I´ll use tick viscosity CA this time.
If that becomes loose again I´ll use another glue. Maybe I test other glues before on a piece of scrap wood with a piece of white binding that´s on my shelf.

I ordered this one:
https://viento.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-...62405613-3.jpg

I feel the pain. My dad has a USA-made Martin DR from the late 90s-early 00s that I've grown up playing on, and it's really bad. Does the hairdryer and CA glue technique work well enough? if so, then I'll definitely work on his instead of continuing to save up myself to send it to someone to fix.

-David A



2015 Taylor 514ce Custom, 2003 NS62ce, a Yamaha FGX800c, baritone rigged Kona, and whatever guitars I'm fixing up at the moment :D

Since I just fixed mine a week ago, I can't say for sure how long it will hold, but it appears to be working well enough. The binding is secured and there is no longer any gap at all.

Just gonna keep my fingers crossed, and hope for the best...

Language lesson: 'Fixed' ain't the same thing as 'glued'. I think there's vastly more effort needed to fix something as compared to gluing something, yet I see any number of folks claiming that a few drops of super glue and some masking tape fixes the binding problem. If only.

But if some folks tell you that's what they did and it worked, you don't believe them or ?

a thought
 

I don't know anybody with a time machine. I glue something last night and it looks glued this morning - - - ain't proving nothing. A couple of years, that's a decent argument, but enthusiasm over a 'fix' that ain't had one birthday, no, I don't think that the celebration is warranted.

Interesting.

Fixed, yes fixed, the problem after two attempts. I learned to apply longer strips of crazy glue than I did on the first attempt.

I learned that guitars stay intact with long strips of binding unseated. I wonder if an acoustic guitar would be fine with all body binding taken off.

There are a lot of guitars that are designed and made without binding. Martin 000-15, Taylor GS Mini and Taylor Academy series to name a few.

Binding was originally conceived and used both to protect edges from dings and to seal the large edges of top and back plate end grain from moisture absorption. Modern finishes now seal the end grain effectively so binding isn't necessary for blocking moisture.

Plastic binding doesn't contribute much towards structural integrity of an instrument, but wood binding contributes substantially towards a strong joint at the interface of sides and plates.