Buffing a Guild D-20 to gloss?
Hey AGF!
I’ve owned my Guild D-20 for a few years now, and I’ve always pondered on buffing the satin nitro to a gloss. I’ve been doing a lot of reading on the topic, but it’s been difficult to try and formulate a game plan with it. I’m certain my D-20 has a satin nitro finish because I owned an F40 STD from the year prior and it had more of an open pore finish. I know it’s unlikely to get it down to a true mirror gloss - but I’d be happy with a semi-gloss at least. My Guild has already been pretty buffed in from where I’ve played it, I’m just looking to make it more whole. What would be y’all’s suggestions? I’ll post future results here too. Thanks! |
If you're serious, just unstring it, hit it with some 1000 grit sand paper just to rough the surface a bit, tape off the stuff you don't wanna gloss, and hit it with some Rustoleum Clear Coat (2K)... thin coat... let dry... thin coat... let dry... repeat until you like it.
Once you let it cure, hit it with some high grit sandpaper, or better yet, wet sand, then buff it out with some Meguiars Ultimate... You should have a mirror finish, or close to it. |
Since you're obviously not going to overspray it.........
I've glossed a few guitars and always to a mirror finish. I use Meguiar’s ScratchX. You can use a polishing pad or microfibre. The key is patience. Like spit-shining boots, do a little bit at a time and blend your work. Some will say not to use ScatchX but neither I, nor anyone I know have had an issue by using it. You, of course, will choose. |
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Yeah I would not spray that guitar. I've used Scratch X as well with no issues but only to polish up an already glossy guitar. |
I used Mequiar’s on my Larrivee OM-40R when my armed polished a spot on the lower bout. So I polished the whole guitar. It looks good, but not as good as if had been originally a gloss finish.
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Has anyone ever buffed out a satin guitar to gloss and then wanted to revert back to satin? This is where I find myself with my Martin 00015E-C.
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Yeah…. I think in my instance, spraying on more lacquer is more than what I envisioned. I’ll try this method out first. I do wonder, should I start with grade 0000 steel wool before I put on the scratch X? Or should I be OK with just the latter? |
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I used this method to finish the cedar soundboard on my 1932 arch top acoustic..
hand rubbing with pumice & rottenstone powders: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...QCWqfQIL7Y9DHq |
I polished my Larrivee Forum III several years ago with Virtuoso polish and it still has a warm, soft glow that is very satisfactory. The key, as I recall, was patience and preparation.
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I try to avoid changing finishes. Polishing actually removes microlayers, or as others have suggested, you can build up new layers (overspray) then polish that down. Its a huge investment of time, and rarely approaches the factory finish
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My opinions: Results are permanent. Time's better spent playing. |
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Fine sandpaper like automotive stores sell is safer. Soaking it first is a good idea. A good buffing polish is 3M Machine Polish. |
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I buffed my Epiphone Masterbilt EF500RAN out many years ago using McGuire's. Came out looking very nice. DON"T use steel wool!
https://i.imgur.com/ltPJDIKh.jpg |
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