My bad... the posting didn't copy over correctly

I may have missed this in htis long thread, but does the Taylor method not use a string-overlap before winding? If not, what keeps the string from slipping?

And no one seems to explain the best way to keep tension on the string as it's being wound. Obviously, even after all these years, I hate stringing guitars.

I just use about a first fret length ... though on a couple guitars I use about half that on the 6th string since the post is too short for more than about 1.5 windings.

I only wind under the hole ... the pressure upward holds onto the string. I just hold onto the string with my right thumb and index finger ... keeps adequate tension on the string as it's being wound. Years ago I used to press the string down into the nut slot, but then it occurred to me it might wear down the nut prematurely or inappropriately, so I started to just keep it taut between my fingers.

I don't like the Taylor method either, simply because I don't think any string should be cut before it's tuned up to pitch. And, I also feel that the string-lock method is bettter than NO string lock. So, as far as I'm concerned, the Taylor method just doesn't get it.

I also use a capo when installing new strings. After seating the ball end, I bring the string up the fret board and through the nut slot and hold it taut.....then, I slap a Kyser capo on it at about the third fret. This seems to work best for me since, after putting the capo on, I only have to be concerned with the six or seven inches of string I'm working with at the head stock instead of the having to control the whole string flopping all over the place......it just kind of gives me an extra hand, so to say. It's a little trick I taught myself due to the trouble I sometimes had when trying to install "loop end" strings on mandolins. It works great when doing guitar strings, too.

Before inserting the string into the tuning peg hole, I align the tuning peg hole to be in a direct line with the fret board.

I then insert the string into the tuning hole, pull it snug, then pull it back about 2 inches, do my string lock maneuver, turn the tuning peg until the string is fairly snug, remove the capo and tune the string to pitch. After the string is tuned to pitch, I clip the string end with a pair of side cutters.

I get a perfect looking job every time. Strings locked and three wraps down the tuning shaft with no overlaps. I've been doing it this way for years and really can't see any reason to change a method that works for me. Takes me maybe 20 minutes to change 6 strings. I could maybe do it quicker, but I'm retired.....no need to hurry for anything anymore.

I don't have any fancy battery powered string winder either. I just use a cheapo plastic one that cost about $3. In fact, the only time I use it is to UNWIND the strings.......never needed one to wind the strings back up.

Friction and that kink at the end.

Your other hand, of course :)

It helps to have a geared or motorized winder. That way, you only need to hold the string for a little while.

I think it really depends on the ratio of your tuners. Manually turning the knobs on 21:1 Gotoh 510s will get tiring after a while! :lol: